Hi all I want to clean/service my 996 clutch over winter as it was a little grabby when hot (sat at traffic lights). I'm after a guide, instructions and generally things to do/DON'T DO! I have a Haynes manuel so is that the best bet? I also saw talk of lithium grease, whatever that is, but didn't want to hijack. I'm sure this has been asked before so please feel free to point me towards another thread. Peace.
You need to disassemble the clutch plate pack, remembering the order, and measure each plate, both pressure and friction. There are tolerances which make sure you have the correct pack thickness. Depending on mileage, it may just be as simple as cleaning the steel plates and brushing of the dust. You can search t'internet for instructions and guidance. Stock clutch starts with a steel plate, slipper starts with a friction plate. Other than that and the different final pressure plate, there is no difference. Andy
Will any seals, gaskets, etc need replacement? What should you clean the friction and pressure plates with? Any ideas on the measurements? Do I need a micrometer? Is it that accurate? Cheers
No seals need replacing... Take it apart plate by plate and put the plates in the order and orientation they came out on the RH foot peg; it helps to make sure they go back in the right order and orientation (one or two slipper plates will be convex) If it's gabby it's probably not too worn; else it would slip... I used to clean mine every few outings, or over lunch time during a track day; quite therapeutic... I miss the dry clutch; now got an 848...
The plain steel plates will be either 2mm or 1.5mm thick. As has already been said at least one 1.5mm steel plate will be dished. I clean my plain steel plates with brake cleaner or chain cleaner, any good degreaser should do. The friction plates you need to just brush off with a dry paint brush. If you have organic friction material plates there will be less plates than if they are sintered material because the sintered plates are thinner. I believe the overall thickness of the steel and friction plates is 36.5mm. The organic friction plates are the ones that wear and should be nominally 3mm thick including the friction material. If the friction plates are worn below 2.5mm, I'd chuck them and get a new set. Andy
Cheers guys, been reading and apparently very easy to overtighten the spring bolts (can't remember their proper name). Is there a knack like on an oil filter of finger tight + 1/4 turn? Also, the lithium grease mod, is that only done to the steel plates then? Peace.
Also, should the friction plates be rotated (from facing inward to outward) and/or the order changed?
First of all you need to know what it is you have as there are several different items. Do a piccie. If you still have the original silver clutch cover then you can take this off to reveal most of it. Be aware you dont need to take out what appear to be all the screws holding this on only certain ones that go back in the same place as they are different lengths. i would also then research this with the proviso that there is also a lot of misinformation going on. If its a standard clutch then the only real importance is the order of the plates. Come back with a picture and we can go from there..
Take the pressure plate off. If it has teeth on the back of it, it is a standard clutch. No teeth means its a slipper.
First impressions looking at them pictures I would say it's an STM slipper. The springs stand out much further on the standard preasure plate. Using my phone so pics aren't to clear. Steve
Hope not, that means I need to get something else to make her standard again. What is the big deal with a slipper clutch anyway?
Seen that clip thanks. There are surprisingly few videos out there. I think it's something that if you take the bike to the garage for all your work you would not do yourself but if you work on your own bike its a very simple basis thing. I'm just learning and am trying not to make any costly mistakes. Thanks for your help guys Merry Christmas.
