I always enjoyed reading Rupert Paul's stuff in bike mags (I always remember his ethanol powered Daytona 675). He's gone honest though and started up his own rewiring business. Motorcycle's new wiring loom. | Rupe's Rewires
Yeah - I think the KTMs main loom has about 10 wires that make it up....however - I find wiring looms difficult to decipher but, if im with someone who knows what theyre talking about, then they explain it - then I can understand it...I need that help....however in the KTM's situation I think about 60% more wiring is going in than is coming out....but ive got wiring diagrams for all the new stuff, it just needs to all be connected to each other and then in turn grafted to the KTM loom (once that's been stripped out). My mate came over last week.....looked at it (hand on chin) and said "yeah - shouldn't be a problem but ill design a new loom on paper first then weve got a map of what we want to do..." The only problem is, is I have to wait for another 6 weeks or so as he's going away today working offsite...pisser. Stuff coming out: Headlight indicators Rear light front and rear brake switches engine kill engine start. Fusebox Stock clocks Going in New, engine start and stop Front HID rear light (one wire setup) rfid ignition starter Alpha Numeric clocks water temp sensor outside air temp oil pressure voltage monitor Amp monitor New clocks measure the amount of G's pulled on acceleration (that should be fun on a supermoto....)
I've done a few carbed Guzzis, rocket science its not. I would recommend using thinwall wire and for nearly all of it you'll only need 2 sizes, if thinwall probably 0.5mm^2 and 2.0mm^2. You'll probably need a little 3.0mm^2 for feed from battery to fusebox (via ignition switch or a start relay) and alternator feed to battery or fuseblock. There are some nice combined boxes that simplify the task a lot. Usually not cheap but compared to 1k then well worth the outlay Die m-Unit ist die elektronische Schaltzentrale im Motorrad - von motogadget PDM60 PDM60 - Rowe Electronics FUZEBLOCKS.COM I wired a mate's in all black cable to keep costs down and used marking ferrules either end for wire identification and drew up the wiring diagram in Excel. It turned out pretty good. I'm not an electrical wizard but I'd offer "virtual" help to anybody on here who was wanting to give it a go John
Those prices aren't too bad, the bloke needs to make an honest living. Plenty of suits providing far less service for much more.
I agree it's the going rate or thereabouts. There is another guy "The Ferret" who does this stuff traveling up and down the country rewiring old Brit bikes and the like and I've been told on more than one occasion that its about a "K" starting price to get a rewire done. My only point is its not that difficult a job, if you have the time. I'd rather spend the money getting one of these improved boxes and the correct tools and do the job myself. At the end of it then I've got better components and special tools with the money. If you have the dosh and don't have the time or inclination then why not. I'm sure these guys do great work
I thought it seemed expensive at first but when you break it down it doesn't seem too bad. Look at what you have to pay solicitors or accountants for what is often just rubber stamping paperwork, now that is a rip-off.
Motogadget for me..... www.motogadget.com Got all my stuff delivered....just waiting for my mate to finish work offsite...
Its good stuff if a bit pricey. My Magni is wired with an early M-Unit, the later ones are even better with more features They are sweet, @comfysofa drop us a line or "start a conversation" if you've any questions. Helped a few Guzzi guys wire the M-Unit but in reality it is pretty straightforward. John
Well....its going to happen in stages.... 1. Strip out the old loom (if you can call it that - theres hardly anything to it.) Most importantly remove the ability for the old loom to start the bike and operate the lights. 2. This is where my mate comes in...at this point he'll be drawing it all out in AutoCAD - while hes away hes taking his laptop and PDFs of all the motogadget stuff that ive got going in and then will build a new loom in autocad 3. Start to wire the bike up.... I think the munit is well designed - once its powered and the bike is using the munit and rfid ignition to start then the rest is easy - just to make life easier ive just ordered the 3 way switch gear - 2 of them - one for each side which means I only need to take one wire from the munit to each cluster and the m unit will know which button is pressed....witchcraft I tells ya! As much as id love your help I think with something like this you have to be in front of it....believe me I cant wait to get started as the bike starts and from a looks point of view its almost there....and now I have to wait another 6 weeks....
Glad you got it covered, I am a bit confused about the 2 x 3 way switchgear statement though, but as I haven't read through the current V2 manual then I'll bow to your wisdom. I only knew about the M Button which allows one wire to be run from the M-Unit to the M-Button and communicates via a form of CAN bus. From the write up and photo the M-Button uses separate wires to each of the buttons that are at the bars. Perhaps I'm not understanding, extremely feasible, or there is a feature or other bit of kit I haven't heard about . Either way its a piece of piss to wire up
Well, that's the way I read it all though stu ( my mate ) looked at it for about an hour or so and said.....piece of piss. ...2 days tops.....I'll bow to his knowledge as he's been the site electrical engineer for 25 years!
I spoke to Ferret a couple of years back when I was having alarm woes with my SV1000. The guy couldn't have been nicer or more helpful, he was on the phone for a good 30 mins trying to help, free of charge. At the time I asked him about custom looms (cos I already had a Guzzi project in mind) and he reckoned on £7-800 then, so Roop's prices don't seem too scary.
