My Garage, Repair Or Replace

Discussion in 'Lounge' started by Cream_Revenge, Jan 17, 2015.

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  1. sheds need ventilation, or else they sweat bad.
    you need a good dehumid' as before. you had no where else for bikes, so improve what you have.
    If it was mine, i would remove the roof and lay on rigid insulation boards, lay on marine ply and through fix into rafters.
    Then glue a rubber membrane over the top, one side at a time.
    To the walls, I would vapor control/felt all round, overlapping horizontal joints. Then fix 50x25 treated laths through the felt, into the vertical members that exist, then reclad the shed with horizontal treated shiplap.
    Then fit gutters, inside, fit insulation boards between vertical timbers, and overcad with 12mm ply if required.
    The doors could do with the same treatment.
    If you use cedar classing for the outside, you wont need to look after it. Its full of natural oils and resins.
    The rubber roof will last 50 years, and requires no real skills to lay.
    Did I say you need a big dehumidifier? :Woot: 2p an hour to run (will only run occasionally if its well insulated).

    with regard to the slab, its fine, ideally, your cladding/laths want to run down below the top edge of it, ie so water cant run across slab. (sorry, floor slab).
    eitherway, nothing should touch the soil or ground (concrete apart).

    Now, If you really want to go to town, lay some visqueen on your floor, dress it 100mm up your walls.
    Lay 50x50mm laths on the floor, 450mm apart then lay 450mm wide insulation, 45mm thick between.
    Counter lay 22mm chip board flooring on top, and screw and glue this to the 50mm laths.

    Floor paint, or lay lino over the wood.

    It will be warmer than your house, and a small heater will see it toasty warm for those tinkering cold evenings.

    :upyeah:
     
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  2. Just roll on some decent felt :)
     
  3. What is it?
    I take it you board underneath?
    Is it loud (when it rains)?
     
    #63 Cream_Revenge, Jan 18, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2015
  4. Dont bother with replacing, repairing or treating the wood.
    It's a natural product it fixes itself... Pmsl
     
    #65 AirCon, Jan 19, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 19, 2015
  5. I repeat, it's a shed.
     
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  6. cant remember what its called goggle steel roof products, not expensive.you probably could put it on boards underneath, i didn't comes cut to length screw it on to joists easy peasy, trust me i am no builder. yip it's noisy, but not half as noisy as me if i find the bike sitting in a pool of water.
     
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  7. Man cave...retreat from women folk?
     
  8. It's a garage, Mr Insurance man does not like sheds.
     
  9. OT - May want to watch that. Mate lost his bikes (tools, lawn mower etc) from his shed that he declared a garage when he was on holiday. Mr Insurance refused to pay once the assessor visited.
     
  10. I always make a point they know it is made of wood. Some are OK, others a real pain. I think the rule is "can you park a car in it and does it have a solid (not wood) permt floor?". If yes, it's a garage, if no, it's a shed.
     
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  11. Happy days. Good luck with the rebuild.
     
  12. Cheers. Not how I was intending to be spending my summer/Termi budget but at least it's outside and I should get a good suntan if summer ever returns. Buying a new bike first week of November makes for a very long winter.
     
  13. The dependant factor is the spacing of the rafters on a pitched roof and whatever the final surface is, plus the snow load.

    If the roof is tiled/slated, then the plywood really does nothing other than support the moisture barrier and adds to the security........9mm ply isn't easy to get through.

    I agree if it was for a flat roof and potential snow load, but again dependant on the roof joist spacing.

    Of course, any plywood sheathing adds to strength, by preventing the structure from going out of square. It can actually mean that diagonal bracing between studs (and rafters) isn't necessary.
     
    #74 Ghost Rider, Jan 19, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 19, 2015
  14. They are roughly 30" apart. I say roughly as Mr Builder decided to not bother with a tape measure by the looks of it.
     
  15. Why not just build something solid?
     
  16. Too wide for felting on 9mm; probably too wide for tiling.........just about OK if using fake slate if the batten size is 50mm x 40mm minimum (and 9mm ply).

    If felting, unless you add some intermediate rafters and ceiling ties, you will need 18mm ply, as ACT said.
     
  17. That's was my starting question, the general census of opinion seems to be to repair my current one.

    However there seems to be contrasting views on how to achieve this from "it's a bloody shed, whack some more felt on it and board up the holes" versus " strip it right down, start again and gold plate it". To be honest, I think I will find some middle ground.
     
  18. I didn't 'start again' because I wanted the building in the same place as the existing one, so I had to add to the existing one and then strip and revise it to suit the new bit.

    IM000455aa.jpg
     
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  19. OK, boards for guttering come on Wednesday from my local timber supplier to farms, etc that turn out to be bloody awesome. 4 x 3.6m x 100mm x 22mm FSC timbers @ £3.16 +VAT = £15.17
    £5 delivery (happy days).

    They also do 8'x4' ply. 12mm @ £15.80 and 18mm @ £22.81. Both + VAT.

    I think I need 14 sheets (as they wont fit neatly so I will get wastage due to the purlins being badly spaced so that is:
    12mm = £265.44
    18mm = £ 383.21
    Which is quite a difference.

    How does that price look?

    To be honest, at that cost I'm most likely to try to reuse as much as I can. Its hard to judge though as you cant see where the boards join.

    They also had this stuff:
    Onduline - Onduline Bituminous Corrugated Roofing System
    Which comes in at around £250 with all fixings, apex joint, etc.
     
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