I have trawled through the forum for info on the tci-p ignitions, there is some info in here but thought it would be a good idea to try and get it all in one post, so, has anyone used one of these ignitions and is there anything i should know before i even put it on the bike? has anyone got any base maps they want to post? also has there been any development within the forum of the 3d mapping using a TPS? it looks like a pretty simple fit but as always there may be gremlins lurking that i am not aware of. thanx in advance.
I have fitted electric fuel pump with relay cut off all operated via ignitech, including shift light, tacho. Not yet tried tps as have no tps on carbed monster. But I did have a go playing with map and set ignitech to not spark at 1st engine revolution so it improved starting.
I used one on my old supersport excellent bit o kit look on uk monster forum loads of info there Steve B
Did you have starting problems, and is your bike stock? any add ons like lightened flywheel? i have just fitted this and it does seem better with 2 revs before firing. long way to go yet as i still am at the pops and bangs stage.
Hi Spike, Someone on here had problems with a ignitech unit, I believe they sent out a few faulty units which were replaced FOC. He had pops and bangs which could not be ironed out. Just thought i would let you know.
Thanks for that, i knew i had seen it somewhere but could not find it. I have got it past the pops and bangs but bad light has stopped play. I have loaded an original kokusan curve but it was shite, now tried the same base at 6 deg but increasing slowly to 24 by about 6k, as this is where i had the worst pinking with the silent hektik, then increase to 30 and rev limit at 9k. bad news was i left the timing light in the dyno and now the bike is at home so although i know the marks are correct i have no idea if the base line is. so next episode will be when i have fetched the timing light. my plan is to check the base with the light adjusting the light 6deg to zero, hopefully all should line up. a further question is, the setup page on bike gives advance 1 and 2 both read 6deg but one has a max of 38 the other 41 deg, is this the 36 deg spread plus the 6 static, so these figures are the max i can dial in? i wont need anything like this as max power was achieved with only 24deg of adv, but these are useful figures if i fit a tps.
I have done a simple excel sheet where I put in ignitech timing values and it shows real life values taking in to consideration your current flywheel base timing and ignitech base timing. It is not one to one and delay changes the more you go up the rev range. Just have a look, only change values in blue fields, orange field will show actual timing, change rpm to what you want it to be. View attachment TCIP4 Ignitech Map calculator.zip
Have had a quick look at the data, why did you choose a -3 degree setting for your flywheel, i am looking at going the other way to stabilize tickover. also which model of ign do you have, mine is a model 75 , brad makes reference to the model 75 and 80 not having the inbuilt delay, how will that affect your figures if i try and copy them? i dont think i can as yours seem too advanced but till i get to the dyno i will reserve judgement.
No idea at the moment what model of ignitech I have as never written it down but I got it in 2010. General practice with high comp pistons is to retard ignition by 2 to 3 degrees. To avoid detonation and holes in new pistons. Retarded hence -3 . A backup if ignitech fails so I can plug in stock and ride around. Regarding no delay just change all values in line where it says lag value .... to 0. BTW when I use strobe light on my one I see no timing marks at all on flywheel, it scares me.
It will give the build data on the drop down when plugged in to the unit, the -3 deg thing is a very good idea for a backup but mine will not even run at part throttle on the kokusan units, they do run and will get me home if i stay off the gas. As for timing lights, i treated myself a few years ago to a new snap-on digital lamp, all singing and dancing. the trouble is on the ducati it cannothold a steady reading until it has 3 deg programmed in to it, its only on ducatis! this really gets you scratching your head, let me know on the build data if you can.
One thing I noticed fcr's will idle on anything just feed them fuel and have spark on other end hehe. Regarding timing light so my stock light is useless? It is for older low revving cars. If that is the case what do you use?
I use a snap-on digital timing light but use that with another snap-on box of tricks that halves the number of sparks so the light can read the motor correctly. as i said it does work but has lots of scatter on tickover, dunno why.
That were me .... Got my unit back from the Czechs, complete with a longer wiring harness so it now fits nicely under the seat. So far so good ... fits tidy and bike starts straight up but ..... as before whatever I do with the curve the bike feels mega retarded below about 4k. I've tried all my various curves and still it runs like shit .... left the unit on the bike but gone back to the standard units and timing, which lets it pink sometimes (depends a bit on whose super-unleaded is in the tank) but goes like shit off a shovel from tickover to a bit under 9k. I've also increased the dwell to max but no difference. Can someone who's got a unit running nicely publish thier graph, complete with dwell figures and base figure? I'm using stock coils and NGK Iridium plugs with the pick-ups set back to stock advance ..... any clues here? Cheers chaps
Ok my ignitech model is 21.1.2010. Indie try stock ngk plugs gapped correctly. On my 944 iridium runs to hot and fails to spark properly.
I am getting somewhere with this but going is slow, dyno is ok but cannot get to ride it on the road, (raining). i have tried indie's ign module on the dyno and there is a definate fault around 2,500 rpm. after that it runs fine, so i think it will be going back. my pops and bangs were due to sprained contacts making and breaking, this was caused by the silent hektik ign module having slightly thicker contacts so spragging them open. Lucaz, you say a problem with iridium plugs, what grade are they? can you describe the problem with more detail? cheers.
Well first issue only applies to big bore engines. Temperature operational ranges on iridium plugs is smaller then stock ducati plugs. Stock plugs can be used with big bore however iridium plugs are working on the verge of upper max temperature and sometimes over. That can lead to missed sparks, which could result in flooding and when iridium plug is flooded it is never again the same for some reason. Good indication is misfiring when hot and under load. Finally metal grades used for each temperature range is different so it is possible to overheat them so much that gap changes. Solution is to use higher temperature model. That does not solve flooding issue and sadly when cold many ducatis flood a bit.
ALL my engines are 944 or bigger, i use iriduim plugs and have never come across this problem, without taking the plugs out i cannot remember what grade they are, i will have a look when i get chance. i have noticed intermittent firing, but ony on tickover, this was worst when using cosworth pistons with a stupid comp, i now use JE with the lump carved off and the problem is not as bad, but i stress its only on tickover, which incedentally is around 1100 -1200 rpm. it will not idle any lower.
I had a look today at the plugs that i am using, its 9's. DPR9EIX-9. Been in for a while now nice golden brown, and no problems. are you sure its the plugs giving the problem? my compression is about 10.75:1. am hoping to get out on it sooooon to test this ignition.
