Yep that is what I used and I had blisters on plug despite bike running rich low down. I always knew my bike running super hot but that hot?
Out of interest, what carbs? jet size? what fuel pump and what pressure? i am using 39 FCR's on long manifolds, mains are about 165. it still runs off weak at high rpm 9k+, tried to compensate with main air jet but no good. felt the fcr's were rich midrange using a load control so changed the needles. also found the carbs running out of fuel at the top end so needed a bigger pump. the problem i aam trying to get over is the massive torque drop after peaking at around 6k, just trying to hold on to it a little. the tcip seems to hold the torque a little better by allowing more advance at the top end, so i think i am on the right track.
I have FCR's 41 but on short manifolds to keep torque with IE cams to keep torque and bigger valves. Well I wanted torque not top end. Granted my sparkplug issues stopped when I stopped revving the V2 to 10.5k and set proper rev limit at 9.5k
I think, no, im sure that the fuel pump is part of your problem. when at full throttle there is no vac pulse to work the pump effectively, so the float bowls run low on fuel. this did not show up immediatly on the dyno as its all over too quick on a power run, but hold it at 6k against the dyno brake or even accelerating hard on the motorway and you will see the a/f ratio go west. i tried a mitsubishi elec pump from a bedford rascal, better but still not enough for flat out runs, then moved to another mitsubishi pump from a carb r1, much better. its the same pump with a different spring so holds 4.5 psi flat out. have you had the bike on a dyno?
Last electric fuel pump has overpowered my float bowls and duped petrol to engine almost causing hydraulic lock eeek. Since then abandoned the electric fuel pump idea. Might try the r1 one, any part number for that? Re Dyno not since electric fuel pump fiasco. Before that I had about 95Nm torque at about 7.5k. However at 4k I already had over 70Nm.
Pump was from ebay, carb yam r1 mitsubishi pump, this is one, Yamaha R1 Fuel Pump 2001 | eBay lob the bracket away and use a steering damper bracket, loop the feed from the main fuse board and away you go. if unsure i think i still have the rascal one, if you want to try it i can dig it out if it still works, that is. best figure i got for torque was 84 ft/lb at 6k it seemed to start at 50ft/lb! dont know how that converts, i am building another motor with short manifolds and 41 fcr's totry and capture a bit back around 9k, can you remember how the torque falls off with the short manifolds? was it an improvement? did the ignition have any effect? last q, are you running a stock flywheel? (i may have asked this if so forgive my stupidity, it been a long day).
So yours top was about 113Nm and it started at 67. Would be correct then as short manifolds move the power/NM down the range so it all starts fast but peaks quickly. As such my one had a steady almost straight line to about 7.5k then drop off but still up till about 9k and then flat.
It starts at around 3k because you cannot get a steady reading below that, short manifolds move the power UP the range, this is because there is less of a restriction on the inlet, so how you first said it is correct, that is what i am trying to achieve, the torque with the long manifolds falls away sharply after the peak, like a stuka!
Yep seen such charts I always preferred torque for road bike, much more fun just in rain its a bit on/off on my bike My bad stock manifolds are long you are correct. That is why I stayed stock there rather then short. 2V is not a high revving top end bhp bike so why kid yourself.
Now been for a road test and also back to the dyno. initial results were that i had too much advance at 3k the motor bucked and spat back, it was just shit to ride. ran up on dyno and id 'd the problem and retarded to 15deg at 3k and set the base line at 10 deg. let it cool till morning. came to it this morn and it would not start, not nohow! plugged in and backed the base back to the pickup setting of 7deg and it fired straight away. the timing is bang on the nose when checked with the light so 30 on the map means 30 deg on the lamp. so happy with that, there seems to be no lag at all, if you dial 36 deg the dots line up perfect! so what i ended up with was: base 6 deg 1500 7 2000 8 3000 12 4000 20 5000 25 6000 28 7000 30 8000 32 9000 32 deg 9500 rev limit i have not dialed it in exact but it does run smooth, i feel there probably is too much adv after 6k as i am running twin plugs, this needs less adv. will do this when i get more time. am happy with ti for now though.
So 6 months later, how did we all do? i am still messing with the ignitechs and now need some info on adjustmens in the dwell area to compensate for twin spark dynatec coils. funny how the interest returns with the sunshine.
Ain't that the truth! I was so interested two Saturdays ago that I popped the bike up to the Storey Arms rolling road and ended up with an official receipt. Not a fixed one, either, so I await an invitation to explain why I should be allowed to keep my business and stay off the dole. Q. Oh Sword of Damacles, where is thy sting? A. Right above your head, you stupid git. Went and forgot the golden rule, didn't you! (Which is, of course, don't venture onto popular roads on a sunny weekend.)
Grunt, how did your ignitech woes pan out. i had a play with dukedesmos ign on thurs and think he had a similar problem as you had. also i did increase the dwell on my v80 and gor good low down improvements, still need some tinkering though.
Well mine ran reasonably well yesterday on a 70 mile ride. Other than popping on the overrun, occasional spitting back through the carbs at low speed and a bit of hunting/surging under 5k. Not sure if the problems are ignition and/or carbs but will (hopefully) get it back to the dyno this week for some fine tuning.
Ayup Spike The new (V80) unit they eventually supplied seems to work as it should. The bike is now smoother (power wise, anyway) than it has any right to be at all revs. Pulling away and low speed pottering are in a different league from standard. It accelerates in a quite alarming fashion from as low as 2500 revs in the lower gears and pulls really hard at any reasonable road speed in any gear (see my last post!). The only odd thing is the refusal to accept a handfull of throttle from tickover. This is clearly not a problem in the real world but with the Kokusans and your DPs it would accept it. I've tried bumping the dwell up and then gradually reducing it, but to be honest I can't feel any benefit from having the dwell above 10. I'm going to get some mini dynacoils which, combined with large gaps they should allow on the Iridium plugs, may help here. I tell a lie about there being no real world problem ... I've just remembered a split second stumble when I gave it a handful in top at about 3 or 4k yesterday. I think the thing to remember about these Ignitech units is that they are quite likely to be broken at delivery! Cheers mate Grunt
Running very well now Spike. Went for a longish ride (around 200 miles) yesterday, gave me a neckache from the jarring ride but I've been tinkering with the suspension today and managed to get it much better. Ignition and fuelling seems spot-on. I'm liking the way the power hits when I open the throttle, compared to my 916 the power delivery is like being hit in the face with a baseball bat! Of course it lacks the top-end of the 4-valver but the bottom end is brutal and will lift the front off the throttle from 4-5k in third, almost like a big supermoto compared to the 916 and immense fun. Thanks for all your help and also to Sam & Pete at SPR - top blokes.
