1993 900ss Belt Change

There are many threads on the subject and sadly a lot of controversy over the best way to check tension but it really is straightforward even if you use the simplest/cheapest method. I sympathise with you over search function as it isn't that good particularly when it's quicker to Google adding DucatiForum to find a thread! There are several Youtube videos that will help, one in particular from memory. I will see if I can find it.

 

try looking up ducatisuite. or ducatitech

Ducati Suite- For the Do-It-Yourself Ducati Mechanic

I got my last SS belts from Stein-Dinse
Duc Zahnriemen 2-V Gates bis 800ccm kevlar - Stein-Dinse Online-Shop

 

here's a thread on later model but same procedure for yours (plus link to best Youtube video) : -
900ss ie Belt Change | Ducati Forum

 

See if this helps:
CAM BELT CHANGE EASY GUIDE

I did this as an experiment for those of you that are of nervous disposition wondering if you should change your cam belts yourself.

It applies to my 750SS, but I guess it applies to many other models as well.

It also applies to bikes that are running properly and don’t have timing issues.

OK…..First of all make sure you have the right cam belts….earlier SSs at least up to my 1997 model had square teeth (part number 066029090), later models had rounded teeth.

Get the bike up on a paddock stand and whip the plugs out. You only need to take off the right side fairing.

Get the belt covers off…..the front one can be a b*******d, and you usually find you will have to undo the upper oil cooler hose union at the bottom. If you have carb heaters turn them off…..this minimises oil loss when you get the union undone…stick your finger over the end of the hose, pull the front belt cover out forwards and reconnect the oil hose union.

Look for the timing marks on the three large belt pulleys and turn the engine over by hand until they all align with their respective marks on the casings etc…..

(To turn the engine over either put it in second gear or use one of the belt pulley silly nut sockets to turn it).

When you have the marks aligned, take a white marker (crayon or similar – chalk comes off too easy) and mark the outside of the front belt with an F (or Front), plus mark the belt where the timing mark is on the cam pulley.

You can then do the same at the crank pulley (the double one) but the front belt only….if you turn the engine over slightly, you will see that each of the marks you made are in line with a tooth on the belt.

Having made your marks, slacken off the adjuster bolts and swing the movable adjuster under and up behind the belt so it ends up on the inside of the belt rather than the outside.

Take the belt off….it will come off easily…..when off, make sure your make your marks more visible (in fact, colour in the respective tooth on the inside of the belt).

When the front is off, do the back belt….Mark a B (or Back) on it…….Then mark the cam pulley timing mark on the outside of the belt.

The crank pulley (double one) is harder to do, so the easiest thing to do is mark an appropriate groove in the front belt pulley (I managed to get it next to the timing mark)…..and then pick another groove at random on the other side of the same pulley and mark that as well….

Mark the back pulley belt to coincide with those two marks.

Slacken off the adjuster bolts and pull the belt slightly to swing the adjuster into the middle of the belt.

Take the belt off the cam pulley – it will come off easily, but you will probably find the cam pulley pings off it’s mark because it is under spring pressure….Either remember which way it turned or turn it back anyway….it should stay there if you are careful.

Then remove the belt from the double pulley.

Now take the old front belt and the new front belt….for ease, turn them so that the lettering is in exactly the same position.

Mark the new belt with an F exactly as the old belt.

Mark one of the teeth on the new belt on the edge of the tooth and on the outside of the belt exactly as on the old belt.

Now count the teeth between the two marks on the old belt and count out the same number of teeth on the new belt (in the same direction) and mark the appropriate tooth as before.

Check them twice to make sure you have them right.

Do the same with the back belt, only this time you have three marks to count between and you mark it B.

Check them twice to make sure you have them right.

When you are sure you have the marks correct, put the old belts to one side, and fit the back belt to the double pulley so that the two marks that are closer together are in line with the marks in the front pulley grooves.

You will probably need to hold it in place while you fit it to the top pulley…….Don’t worry if the top pulley jumps again, just get the belt over the edge retainer so it is sitting on it…….now turn the pulley until the timing mark is realigned with the casing mark….you should see your marked belt tooth in line as well, so just push the belt on all the way so it drops into the appropriate groove.

Now pull the belt out a bit and swing the adjuster back to the outside of the belt…..pull the adjuster by hand so that the belt is tight and tighten the bolts temporarily.

Check those three marks on the belt all line up with the aligned timing marks.

Now do the front belt in the same way.

When you have them all in place and the belts are reasonably tight, slowly turn the engine over and listen / feel for anything wrong….If you have done it properly, it will be OK.

Tensioning the belts is not too difficult……do the back one first…..If you have a fishing type spring scales, hook it around the adjuster wheels, slacken the bolts a bit and pull the scales backwards until they read 4.5kg or 10lbs.

Tighten the adjuster bolts properly.

Check the belt tension also with a 5mm allen key between the fixed belt wheel and the outside of the belt….you should able to push the 5mm key between them fairly easily but not a 6mm allen key.

Do the same for the front belt.

Turn the engine over again to see if AOK.

Then plugs back in, and start the b*gger…….Let it get hot, use some throttle blips as well, then stop the engine…..(I was staggered by how much my belts tightened when it had got hot) and then let it cool and check the belts again….the key method will probably be OK on its own.

It took me an hour……But I couldn’t finish it because a previous owner /s had mullered the special adjuster bolt head sockets, so I can’t fully torque them….I have to use a couple of brake disc bolts temporarily but they aren’t the same.

Put your bike back together….and check the belts after 300 miles max.

I have photos if necessary.

 

I'm in Ashford, so if you want a lesson, you can pop to mine and change them in my workshop ;-)

 

ush1000 whatever you do don't use this technique.

 

wow...

 

That's called 'how to lose an eye and a couple of fingers....'

 

It really isn't difficult.
It's reckoned to be about twice as hard to do a 4 valve engine and I managed that without too much bother, even though it looked seriously daunting as it's a fair bit more complicated.

Go for it!

 

Moto Rapido.............persuade Craig to give you a discount for being on this forum.

 

that's blown me away - in this 'day and age' - most generous, and we can all vouch for Nick on this Forum.

 

Put it this way, I live 10 minutes from Laguna, and mail order my spares from Moto Rapido. In fact I've just got off the phone from Andrew in sales! Don't wait a month, I have heat in my workshop, and it won't take long! Then you can get out and ride!

 

Duc Zahnriemen 2-V Gates bis 800ccm kevlar - Stein-Dinse Online-Shop
Did you not see this?? This is for Gates belts which are Ducati oem. Check your model of bike though, this may not be the exact one.

If you think your belts are expensive, try buying some for a 999 - £140.00 or so!

 

Thanks Chris, I'm all emotional now ;-)

 

Where from?

And by the way.........some people will tell you differently, but square tooth pulleys should have square tooth belts and round tooth pulleys should have round tooth belts (I had it confirmed by Ducati Italy).....

...and as far as I am aware (someone confirm that, please) square tooth belts for carbed 900SSs have been discontinued.

 

First paragraph makes sense, not so sure about the second one though... :/