The next thing you will want to know is how to join the trip cable to the throttle stop screw........ PS.....I have a pair of the Mikuni carbs split at the moment, but my camera batteries are clapped out......anyway, the throttle linkage is a simple grooved cam for the cables to sit in.......if you could extend a squirty tube, you could probably get some WD40 onto it.......The carbs are linked (badly) by the balance screw bits and a pair of coil springs, but it is doubtful as to whether they would cause your idle to stick, unless the linkage bearings are worn (which isn't that likely or at least not seriously) or the springs are gummed right up. .......I used squirty chain grease when I reassembled my carbs because the cam etc was all clean. AL.
Indeed! I was thinking you had drilled/tapped the head of the screw and screwed the cable in but that wouldnt work - it would unscrew if you anti-clockwised the cable, plus the screw is a tiny thing?!? Had another play - have got rid of the hi-idle, trouble is now it wont idle at all?? Im thinking the adjuster is dry/sticky as when you turn the screw, nothing happens until you shimmy it backwards and forwards, the revs will then respond... trouble being I can't see what I am supposed to be lubricating? If you could get a photo it would be most appreciated, I would be able to see what I am dealing with!
The throttle stop screw was drilled and tapped M4......so was the brass bit of the trip reset......M4 screw connecting the two using Loctite (638, I think) then both brass and screw head were crossdrilled 1mm and a panel pin pushed through / pened over. Carbs as below, from manifold side......... AL
Cleverly done! Im not seeing the idle adjuster working any linkage at all? I guess an airbox-side view may show more? EDIT: Im guessing it acts as a stop to the throttle linkage? The little top-hat on the end of the screw, is that part of the screw itself? Can't see how you would unscrew it to remove it as such?
The screw is exactly what you see on the end of the adjuster I made....the bit at the end is just a bit of hose so I don't lose the spring. The screw is into the carb body and the spring stops the screw from moving under it's own steam......the other end of the screw just acts to stop the cam from closing completely....there is a tag on the cam which the screw end touches.....you could probably just unwind the screw until it is completely out, but getting it back in might be a pig........particularly if you can't control the wobbly adjuster if you add it, otherwise you will have to tape it onto the end of yoru screwdriver....warning....don't use the 'normal' size crosshead screwdriver, use the next smaller size down, it will locate better. I have a long pair of medical forceps for just that sort of thing. I have some airbox side pics, but you can't see the cam and screw end clearly. AL
SORTED!! I pulled of the LH half-fairing to get a better view of things, this let me see both air hoses were nipped/kinked over the top of the vert.pot intake tube... Closer inspection and a little logic saw that they would be better routed inbetween the two intake tubes, then fitted into the inside holes in the triangular blackbox, not the rear holes, which is where they have been since I got the bike?? :frown: One startup, and one running SS! Al - if I got my spare reset cable to you and a screw, could you work your magic on it for me please? Would of course make it worth your while...
Interesting stuff. I achieved a small victory today. I managed to get her into her neutral as I was pulling up to the lights. ONCE!!!!
Which air hoses? And yes I could bugger your screw up for you (no charge) or you can buy a readymade Yamaha one.......But you make the frame bracket. AL
Don't worry about it too much....I have mine three years and still have a problem sometimes.....best way is into 1st and gently up, not 2nd and going down. AL
The two 10-12mm rubber hoses coming off each carb down to the triangular black box on the LH side of the frame? As the intake tubes heated up the hoses softened and flattened out, meaning no airflow, meaning the bijke ran shit. :smile:
Gotcha......mine run in a decent route, but the rubber is crap anyway.... PS, is yours a Swedish import? 'the bijke'. AL.
:biggrin: Lol no, its from Germany - was a typing 'hiccup' Superdiscount - have you checked the routing of your hoses from your carbs??
Haven't had time to check these things out yet. I'm heading to the south of France in a just under three weeks and am pretty confident the bike is mechanically sound and fit for the journey. Be good to sort the idling thing out as it's quite irritating, not so much at a standstill but when cruising at low speeds. Only seems to do it in second and third gear I've noticed. Will look back through these posts and get on it over next few days. Don't think is the idle setting altho the bike does seem to start remarkably well without any hesitation. Maybe the last owner got a newish battery in?
Mine always starts easily, even when it was behaving like a Bofors gun at low revs........just don't touch the throttle when you push the button especially when the choke is on.....and trying to get your bike running smoothly at 30mph is an art....2nd / 3rd / 2nd / 3rd / 2nd / 3rd.....oh fk it, 40mph.... AL.
As AL says, even when in a tip-top state of tune slightly 'chuggy' engine pick-up sub 3k rpm in low gears is partly a characteristic of most of these twins that you learn to live with. Re: traffic - each has their own knack - I look ahead to the next place I have to definitely stop and try and approach it with a slowly rising throttle. In a similar way to how a car can be made to 'kangaroo' if your left foot is not rigid, try and concentrate on not letting your right hand respond in sympathy during 'chugging' as it can accentuate the effect.
Sorry misunderstanding here, the bike is not chugging or in any danger of stalling, the opposite in fact, it's running too high. Ie..if you're coming down through the gears the revs never drop below 3000 rpm. The engine is running too high at low speeds.
Is it still doing it after checking your carbs and altering? As a side note riding through towns at low speeds I stayed in 2nd and just dipped the clutch from time to time saves changing gear or jumping like a kangaroo.
Throttle cables too tight (or the pull back cable is too loose); Binding cables - lubricate them; Throttle stop screw needs backing off; Sticking choke mechanism / cable.... They are your initial options before looking further.... AL.
