Slightly off topic I know, but I leave my Multi connected to an Optimate 3 pretty much all of the time over winter. I don't take the battery off the bike, however, because the speedo resets to default kmph when the power supply to it is interrupted. I was once told by a dealer that charging connected batteries could trash the alternator if a power surge occurs, so always connect via a surge-protected extension cord, but do you know whether that's strictly necessary? Just idle curiosity really!
Most modern houses trip the fuses at the mere whiff of electrical anomalies. One of my light bulbs going will even trip its associated circuit fuse. As for surge protection the only way your going to see anything warranting that would be a lightening strike. Whilst he's probably right by virtue of stating a worse case scenario, its extremely unlikely unless your garage/shed has a spire.
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing. Your house fuse board is capable of detecting over current and possibly incorrect voltage paths. It CANNOT detect over voltage caused by a lightening strike. Running your charger via a surge arrestor can only be a good thing, albeit not really necessary. When lighting strikes near by (not necessarily the highest point around) the surge arrestor will conduct and cause and over current, taking out the fuse
Sounds like an issue with the air temp sensor readings or settings and the ecu does not know what fuel and ignition to provide on cold start.
I would put money on my fuse board detecting a lightening strike, that and the rest of my electrical components.
Mine hasnt been started since I got back from dealer, and was sat there a while over winter, labourered, fired, no issues since.
I did not have chance to get the voltages. I have ordered another new Yusa battery and the present one was charged over night. That video posted was a one off for me. Im not getting anything as bad as I showed on the video. I got distracted by the starter switch taking to bits and and assembly. I spend around 2 hours studying this rather over complex part and how it works. I managed to strip the whole thing down to its individual parts to see how it all actually works. I have added the Black GT bars to my S touring just for reference. Putting testing the voltage aside, I would say that this starter switch assembly would be a pretty strong contributor to the hard starting. I managed to replicate a bike that turns over without firing to a bike that starts in a snap with no issues firing up. There are some moving parts in there that if not lined up exactly to the green circuit board, they cause a poor start and visa versa. Obviously this is just speculation as there maybe other issues that I have not tested yet, i.e. voltages etc. At the moment on a cold start I get maybe 1 failed attempt, then it starts straight after that, with a button press only. After the bike has started and runs, it always starts first time. I work in Osterley, so Im just round the corner I believe.
Mines starts within 5 seconds every time from cold even when left for over 2 weeks(I work offshore).Bike is 5 years old and on original battery but not skyhook model obviously..
My new battery has arrived so will dig out the voltmeter and give it a bash. My bike has been starting first time each time from the weekend.
My bike had this trouble, ok its an MTS1000DS so somewhat different but then again. The issue might be the main engine earth - I assume there is one on the newer bikes!? On the DS it connects right where all the crap is thrown off the front wheel and is known for corroding and causing hard starting. Eventually I want to replace the + and - with some new cables entirely. However at the moment I've just added a second earth direct from the battery to a starter motor bolt. (using a £5 Halfords -Ve battery cable as that was what I had to hand) After that mod, it now starts fine! (well, that's jinxed it ;-) Could be another area to check, anyway. Cheers.
Thanks, I'll have a look around there too. The bike lives inside a garage and has been recently serviced, so I would have hoped that the dealers might have noticed any major corrosion that may have occurred, its always worth a look though. I feel that my bike might have been on its period or something as its working all fine now. Which is nice. Just want to check the voltages to make sure.
Hello, Yes I have done what you asked. I thought it easier to make a video, so you can see what is happening. I actually did this a few times before this video but it didn't record. I have a new OEM Yuasa battery on charge tonight, so will install that tomorrow. This is the battery I bought in December 2014. Not sure if it matters but my heated grips are set to min. What you are seeing is: Connected to battery - off Switched on Cranking Running Thoughts?
That looks perfect. Do you notice that the speedo display functions perfectly during the test? Job sorted, thread closed?
Well thats good news then. Thanks for the info. I feel that I have learnt something about the voltages now. Im going to do the same with the new battery and see how it turns out. Cheers for the advise.
Somewhere in the Ducati instructions (probably with the auxiliary running lamps) it tells you NOT to use both the heated grips and the lamps together, as there may not be enough power to keep the battery fully charged. Clearly if you are able to ride and "make progress" this isn't the case; as this is what I run at the weekends. However it would appear if you a commuter (lots of low revs and stops) then this may happen.
Yeah that seems the case. Why don't they upgrade the bike so you can run these together. Thats like saying you can't run your fog lights and your heater at the same time in your car.
There would be something far wrong with the capacity of the charging system if it can't cope with about 48W for heated grips plus about another 8W for a pair of CREE LEDS. 56W in all, drawing about 4.6A altogether.
I definitely read it somewhere, perhaps the instructions are a hang over from when the auxiliary lights were filiment lamps. On the face of it under 5amps of extra load should be fine.
