Hi Guys, I've got a 1993 900ss for which I'm trying to fit a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit, as the old one (probably on the original seals by the look of them!) is leaking air in with increasing regularity. My question is, having removed the piston and spring etc., how are you meant to remove the white plastic scraper seal (new on supplied in the rebuild kit), which appears to be retained in the body NOT by a normal circlip, as I would have expected (and indeed all the instructions/Haynes manual etc. would have you believe), but by what appears to be a full circular ring recessed into a groove. There appear to be no join in it that I can see and no way to prise it out without damaging the cylinder face? I've trawled the web and have only come across one instance where a guy with a 750 Paso was faced with the same problem, but no helpful replies were forthcoming on that forum. I can't believe that Brembo would supply a rebuild kit that you can't fit, I'm sure the usual collective wisdom on here will triumph once again! Cheers Guys.
Hi mate, the kit is not the problem I've got the correct one from Moto Rapido. The issue is getting the seal retaining ring out as it is a solid ring that is an interference fit in a groove. I've got a replacement in the kit but am at a bit of a loss as to how to remove the old one and thus the two seals behind it! I'm reaching the point of no return and will probably have to butcher the plastic scraper seal out and see if the enables me to hook the damn thing out. I've tried expanding the actual clutch master cylinder to see if that would help, but alas not
I had the same problem last year and found nothing in the way of info,my kit had instructions for a rear m/c!! I used a pick l,the type with a hook end.
Samurai, I know it's a bit smaller but I used a thin feeler guage to get a similar round retaining ring out of a groove in the rear shock, just a thought. Cheers Gaz
Hi Guys, Many thanks for the tips, I've now got the damn thing out after a fashion! In the end my son who's an engineer suggested that in his experience with similar fittings there is no real easy way to do it and trying to get it to twist and squash a bit was what he said to try. In the end I didn't have a suitable dental-type pick (which I reckon would have done the trick as rcv4 said), so resorted to his other suggested method i.e. pull the white plastic 'scraper' seal out from behind the metal retaining ring to create some space and then gently tap down with a blunt thin screwdriver on just a single point, so that any damage to the actual cylinder surface was restricted to a small area. This did indeed get the retaining ring to 'twist' and then 'squash' just enough to be able to hook it out. I did make a couple of very small 'dings' in the surface of the cylinder bore, but as predicted, these were very close together and restricted to one area, in front of where the rubber o-ring seal sits. I thoroughly cleaned the master cylinder out with panel wipe, gently sanded the rough edges of the dings with 2000 grit wet & dry and filled them level with 'standard' Araldite. I've used Araldite on a fuel cap in the past and never had any issues with it coming into contact with fuel, so I'm not anticipating any reaction with brake fluid, especially as it's such a tiny area. I've found the 'standard' e.g. not 'Rapid' version seems to form a much stronger bond, although I've had to wait overnight for it to set fully. For what it's worth, I'll try and take some pics and upload them, which others may find helpful in the future. Cheers for all the suggestions guys
