MK1 SL Casing paint advice reqd

Having owned an 80s Guzzi Le mans, I found the non-painted sand cast finish of the engine and diff very acceptable......very low maintenance and easy to clean.........so you could just have your casings sand / bead blasted for a neat result.

However, keep away from Hycote HT paint and the Simoniz Sperex HT paint because A) Hycote is not solvent resistant B) Sperex is better, but as yet I'm not convinced it is fully resistant.........Plus, the engine itself doesn't appear to get hot enough to properly cook the Sperex. (I have been experimenting with my zorst headers)......Sperex can also end up as a silver finish with a build up, which makes it look...............sand cast.


AL.

 

The engine casings were painted silver Si, but as with most Ducati's (including the new ones) it doesn't hold up to English summers very well, come to think of it it doesn't hold up well to any conditions ! So it's soon peeling off. I've repainted a few SS engines over the years and have found the best paint to use is 'Simoniz silver engine enamel', it's not like the really bright tacky VHT silvers you can get and seems to hold up well (5 years on and it still comes up ok after a good wash). You can paint the alternator and clutch covers using rattle cans as they don't get that hot but the finish on the MK1 superlights is a satin black. PJ1 used to do a great engine paint that was perfect but allas with most things solvent related you'll struggle to get some now. The best I've found since is a high temperature satin black by Techcote, it's not as good as the old PJ1 stuff though...

If you want to spray the engine without splitting the casings, it's an easy enough job to do yourself. 'It's all in the preparation', just take your time and make sure you get all the flaky paint, muck and crap off it especially from around all the fasteners and fins. De-grease it well and use an etch primer under the engine enamal. Take your time masking it up and you should get a really good finish.

If you're going down the more involved route and spliting the casings and removing the crank, I'd get all the casings, covers, barrels and heads vapour blasted then powder coated. I'm in the process of restoring my MK1 SL at the moment and have just about finished the engine. I just stripped the top end off (heads, barrels, pistons, both side covers and clutch cover). Got the heads totally stripped down and along with the barrels, both side covers and the clutch cover got them all powder coated in satin black. I did the main engine block myself using the Simoniz engine enamel and I'm very happy with how it's all turned out, just waiting for some bits to come back from the platers and it'll be all back together.

engine before:


Sorry don't have an 'after' shot yet...

but here's one I did earlier (900 SS/IE):

 

I still have not made my mind up about what to do with my reno.

At the moment I am on the side of soda blasting possibly vapour blasting for the engine casings and then protecting with AFC-50. I am not that concerned about getting it absolutely perfect. I can't get the old saying "paint it once paint it forever" out of my head.

When complete I don't think the bike will be used on a regular basis and will definitely not choose to go out in the rain with it.

I also like the natural aluminium look. For the cover I do have to paint alternator side (clutch fluid leak) so interested in above recommendations and of course any on just blasting the casings no paint. I must admit above pics look good though. Good process breakdown on I cleenz macheenz site.

Gillan 900 - which plater have you used, any good, was it zinc electroplate and passivated. Anyone used Home diy plating kits with any good results (don't like sending things off to people and loosing control in the quality department).

Cheers,

Gaz

 

Some bits zinc plated and other bits done in a dull nickel Gaz. Using a place in Brighouse which was recommended to me but haven't used them before, should be all done on Friday so we'll see how good they are...

 

My "new" engine was stripped and vapour blasted, then been thoroughly scrubbed with ACF50. The covers have been paint stripped, acid etched, then painted with SimonizvTough Black, satin, as have the barrels and heads. Looking good so far, and I'm pleased.

 

Engine Paint 7 by Lindsay fae Angus, on Flickr


Engine Paint 4 by Lindsay fae Angus, on Flickr

 

That's the stuff Pict

 

With FCR's?

Some chance...! :biggrin:

Did the heads with different stuff and was able to bake it on, so hoping that the p1shing petrol confines itself to the horizontal cylinder

 

If you're bothered about the surface being petrol resistant just lacquer over either of the two finishes mentioned with 'petrol resistant' VHT clear engine lacquer or better still just vapour blast the casings down to the alloy (as also mentioned) and leave it bare. The key to spraying any engine yourself is not to put too much paint on, just use light coats and just enough to cover it. The thicker the finish the more likely it is to either chip off or discolour.

Can't say I've ever had an issue with petrol pissing out over any engine I've had, although you did say it was on a Honda :wink:

 

Thanks Gilps you've just convinced me engine looks good. When you say covers have been paint stripped what paint stripper did you use I thought some could react with aluminium (I've seen aircraft paint stripper mentioned somewhere i.e. for aluminium body but can't find any in UK) and when you say acid etched did you mean acid etch primer rather than etching it with acid (not trying to be clever here)

When painting the covers did you flat sand between coats and buff it or just leave it natural spray finish and did you clear coat it. Sorry for all the questions.

While on painting going to try some opel / Vauxhall polar white - seen it mentioned on US Ducati site as a possible colour for white frame, will let you know if its a good match.

Cheers,

Gaz.

 

I got the paint stripper and acid etch off ebay. Apparently the main active ingredient in paint stripper has been banned for use by the public and is only available to the trade. The stuff I bought is amazing and I'm guessing is the illegal stuff. You just spray it on and 30 minutes later wash it off. The origanl paint just lifts off. Wear gloves though as I got the odd splash on me and it burns, The acid etch is a spray can job too, and yes it's acid etch primer.

No sanding or flatting between coats. Just spray the acid etch on, gave it a couple of coats, let it dry well, then 3 coats of spray paint with no sanding or flatting between.

This is the stripper
Industrial Strength Paint Remover / Paint Stripper / Spray Gun Cleaner / Aerosol | eBay

This is the acid etch
U-pol Acid 8 Etch Primer 450ml Aerosol UPOL | eBay

 

Cheers.

Gaz

 

Dichloromethane is the missing vital ingredient in paint stripper today... you CAN however buy that nasty shit quite easily on eBay?

Halfords do a petrol-proof lacquer designed for petrol tanks, in hindsight I should have done my engine with it after spraying it up?? Not sure how it would cope with the heat from an SS motor tho?

 

Synstrip is what I used and is very good.

Starchem 5 Ltr Paint Stripper 'Synstrip' | eBay

You can get it at Motor Factors / Bodyshop Supply places. Note it has a 'sell by' date and I was near £40 at a Motor factor with discount so eBay is either a very good deal or 'buyer beware'

 

I think vauxhall polar white is ok for the frame.

I keep offering the test piece up and really can't pick any difference in colour, not sure if anyone can tell any better from picture.

Cheers,

Gaz