Happy Easter All etc, Just fitting my new LED rear indicators, tapped into the rear wiring, to leave the plugs intact for originality. The rears do not flash at all. The only way I can make them work is to also plug in the OE indicators as well. I am sure I have read on here lots of times that ballasts/resistors are not needed for LED rear indicators? And does anyone know where the relay is? Thanks Jon.
Yes they are required (Ballast) as the rear indicators are bulbs!!!! the fronts could be replaced with LED as they are LED! My screen has just updated....whatever @Psy69 said.
Thanks Psy and ACT, that explains why despite dismantling the bike almost to it's bare frame I didn't find the relay! Found lots of other things tough. No excuse now not to get on and wire in the satnav and Roadhawk camera. Ballasts it is then, but as ever it is bank holiday weekend, so that limits my options!! Jon.
I can see me plugging the standards back in as well, and putting them under the seat so I can get out over the weekend!
Few weeks ago installed a new set of rear Kellermann indicators (Micro Rhombus black / LED) http://www.kellermann-online.com/en simple plug + play with no resistors needed (MTS-PP 2012).
Many LEDs have built in resisters but I don't think I've see anyone else saying they have had to use resisters to get any LEDs working at the rear. I used Hyperstrada ones at the rear that plug in to the existing connectors and bolts straight on. 1200 - Rear Indicators | Ducati Forum
I fitted Rizoma LEDs to mine. They came with resistors which fitted into the subframe tubes beautifully.
I have Panagale LED rear indicators on mine. No resistors built in and no resistors needed. Before fitting the Panagale indicators I used the OEM ones with LED bulbs in them, again with no resistors. But if I disconnect a rear indicator, LED or not, the corresponding front one will flash twice as fast, presumably designed this way to let you know that a bulb has gone. LEDs are polarity sensitive. I'm wondering if the OP had them the wrong way round.
Progress: the "dry" build I had just twisted the wires onto the part of the original loom I had exposed, to test. Had a think about resistance, and for the "proper" build I used thicker wire, and obviously connectors and solder. It seems that these have given enough resistance to make things work. So all good, and no Bank Holiday trip hoping to find some ballasts. Jon.
I think you don't quite have grasp of how electrics work Jon. Thicker wires and soldered joints means less series resistance, which in your case was what it needed to make them work. Ballast resistors are wired in parallel, across the LEDS, and have a much lower resistance than the LEDS, drawing as much current as a bulb would. The main thing really is that you've got them working
Maybe not Derek, but enough to work through the problem and get it working, and in my book that's what it is all about. And enough to get the Givi box brakelights, Roadhawk cam, and satnav power plumbed in. Thanks to all for the help and advice. Jon.
You've to see eléctrical diagram, for exemple in a monster 600 you'll need resistor because relay alone doesn't work. It has to do with dash light that doesn't have a diode to break eletrical loop.
If they were the wrong way around they would not flash at all rather than at twice the standard rate.
Not quite right. An led has a much lower reistance than a ballast resistor. It does have a forward voltqge drop and more than likely a series resistor deisned such that it expects a 12volt supply.
