Standard filter with an open air box is supposed to be as efficient as anything and very cheap if you get the Porsche 924 branded one instead of Ducati.
They are from Woodcratf-Cfm. Look nice and have the same rising height as the OEM ones. Mid priced and looking good. 3-Piece Split Clip-on - all - www.woodcraft-cfm.com
Which variant/year? I run mine with just the trumpets out with a Stage II Dynojet kit and straight-through zorsts.....
"The air filter for the 1992-98 900ss/851/888 is the same as fitted to a Porsche 924. Dimensions are: 211 x 211 x 57. Purflex A515 (K & N equivalent: 33-2003, Mann-Hummel filter part number P12210)." The above is quoted from the list of alternative parts from the technical advice section on here. I used to get mine from German Swedish French motor factors. I also get Citroen 2cv oil filters from there, which fit most Ducatis. Running with the airbox open is supposed to give more flow but more importantly, makes it sound truly awesome... I actually Swiss-cheesed mine with a set of holecutters, rather than just chopping the top off. My 999 with straight through pipes sounds great but I do miss the bass thump and bellow from that SS open airbox... I think it may have been Sigma Performance who did some tests and found the standard filter with an open airbox flows as much air as no filter at all.
I tried an open top box on mine and it ran far too weak, which is why I use the standard box without the trumpets.......Normally use YJ148 jets.......tried YJ150 with the open top, but too large it seemed. Here's my float level gauge......I thought it was worth the small amount of time to make an adjustable one after I saw the one in the States (Cycleworks one?)..........this pic is when set at 9mm. 3 credit card thingys superglued together with a 20mm wide slot in the centre one and a tight fitting slide.
Great minds think alike ! My gauge was also based on the gauge sold by CCW. I think you'll find it was made by Factory Pro.
Good. Thank you. I see the idea. Not maide my mid yet, but I'm still thinking in rebuilding the whole airbox on mine. Battery box has a broken mounting eye (right one) and when thinking in replacing it, I feelo more like buidling a new one like DucatuSuite has done. That will allow me to rearrange coils and relays better and will also give more air room around carbs filter
Didn't know this bike had and "analog" (mechanical) rev counter system. Has anybody replaced it by an electronic one? If so, any tips?
People have changed the rev counter for an electrical one, but it is usually the racers that have done it; or because the mechanical drive has packed up........ If the OEM one works fine, I wouldn't waste your money on changing it.........However, I would still investigate why, if you found that it doesn't work.........some very nasty things may have happened down in the engine. I had to carry out repairs to serious damage when I first got mine and I'm probably lucky I got away with what I found, rather than anything worse.
Most aftermarket Rev counters will take their 'pulse' from an HT lead or the CDI depending on the kit you use. I have gone the CDI route on my 1999 Monster and the HT lead route with my 1992 Cafe Racer thingy SS. Both were reasonably easy to do. Yorkie
Thanks for the information. The truth is that the current phisical connector the the head of the vertical cylinder is extremely rusty and worn and being an specific Ducati part will be expensive. It works, (or at least it was working last time I rode the bike, but I'm considering the digital solution as it is cleaner, more reliable and less weight. Yorkie, when you say HT Lead route, do you mean attaching a coil to the sparkplug cable? Do you have any picture of that? Also I would love seeing a picture of your cafe racer (I love those type of bikes, though they are difficult to make in Spain because of a very restrictive MOT policy ) Thanks again Tom
If you read through this thread you will see why it is important to check the mechanical tacho drive, regardless of whether you use it or not............Is It Ok To Ride Carby Ducati's In Cold Temperatures? | Page 2 | Ducati Forum ..........if you don't use it, you will need to do something about blanking off the drive so that you don't get oil washing out everywhere.
Thank you Arquebus, very useful. I'll soak the thingy with WD-40 and try to remove it to see how it looks in the inside. that will drive next decissions.
Continued today removing brakes to fully ovehaul them Front left caliper was out like a breeze and it is now ready to be cleaned, change seals and repinted But oh MIERDA!! the right front caliper had been previously attended with very little care and it had two bolts of different origin that came out and the remaining two have the head totally screwed up. You will see in the picture that the head of the bolt is totally rounded and there is no way to move it out. Allen wrench does freely spin inside Any help on how to open it? Also the rear caliper has the bolts rusted and overtightened and I can not take them out I've soaked them with WD40 with no results. Let's go back to the drawing board again and think perpendicular. I'll figure out how to... Tom
Also noticed this two nuts and bolts on the lower yoke. I understand they are there to regulate the seteering limits of the bike. I will probably widen the limits. When I first handled her in my garage I noticed a very wide turning radio that made me do several back and forth maneuvres when, in my other bike, it's just a matter of only two. Can it affect the handling when driving in any way?
Finally, I took a look at the drive train. Both front and rear sprockets seem to be in good condition (no worn thooth or signs of heavy metal fatigue) Chain looks a bit rusty though. I'll see how it looks after a proper cleaning and decide whether or not to replace it.
