900 Sl Clutch Rebuild With Oem Parts

use loctite 242 (blue) to be safe.
Clutch spring retainers are M6, so 8-10Nm should be sufficient.
Also take note of the stack height of the plates as well

 

adjustment is just adding or removing plates, and the stack height showing as 38,5mm

 

no worries... it's like having surrogate bikes!

 

Don't Loctite anything until you are sure the clutch works properly........

By the way.........I use Loctite 641 (yellow) as a subsitute for 242, having checked with Loctite Technical.

It is stronger, but you don't need too much as heat is normally required to crack it.......the tiniest spot can be cracked without heat.

 

do what Al says.

I always thought 641 was more of a cylindrical surface locker -bearings onto shafts and the like, whereas 242 is a general medium strength thread locker.

 

You are correct Sev.....641 is Bearing Fit..........but I did check with Loctite........and it works on threads as well.

 

Spring retainer bolts are M5 so probably more like 5nm max, personally I wouldn't be using a torque wrench anywhere near them. Just a 'nip' is sufficient, the pressure of the spring will stop them turning anyway.

I've seen too many 'clutch hub post broken off' threads...

 

apologies, I thought they were M6.

I really should stop giving unhelpful advice.

 

Yep that's what happens when you overtighten the spring retainer bolts.

Use the stronger Red Loctite.

 

I'm going to muddy the waters and give you an alternative.

If you like the classic Ducati dry clutch 'music' and don't mind changing your friction plates and basket every few thousand miles, stick with the standard procedure.
However, if you would prefer a quieter clutch that will last maybe three times as long, all you need to do is put one of your old friction plates in first, underneath the first two plain plates.
That's all you need to do to get a quiet clutch that isn't bashing itself to bits

 

Loctite 510 as far as I am aware, is something like ThreeBond,

.....ie; gasket replacement/sealer

 

yup, it's a gasket sealer.

 

Just tried the quiet clutch mod suggested by Old Rider. Fantastic difference, so good that I might get a ventilated clutch cover again. I was going to post before and after audio files of the engine noise but I've just realised that you can't do audio files on here.
I'm now going to order some new friction plates as the originals are a bit worn and when I replace them I'll round off the tabs on the bottom friction plate so it fits into the curves at the bottom of the basket.
Thanks OR, a really effective modification.

#14Stevie Tea, Apr 17, 2015

The quiet clutch mod works by taking advantage of the way the clutch basket slots are machined - they have a curved bottom to the slots, which as standard makes no difference because a plain plate goes in first, therefore the first friction plate doesn't go to the bottom of the slots and remains in the parallel sided portion of the slots.
However, if you put a friction plate in first, the tangs will sit down into the bottom of the curves at the end of the basket slots, jamming it into place and preventing it from moving within the slot. That bottom friction plate then dampens the movement of the whole stack, eliminating the racket and cutting right down on wear of both tangs and basket.
Derek reckons to get 30,000 miles or so out of a clutch with the quiet clutch mod.

Of course, many people don't want to have quiet clutches, they hear the noise as 'music' (each to his own) and others are worried that the extra friction plate places an extra side load on one of the bearings. However, I have heard of no cases of this causing premature failure bearing failure.