Yo Guys. Its almost time for a new rear tyre. How's everyone going about removing the wheel. Do you take it to the dealers, buy a special tool, or buy a 55mm socket. I see the tools/Sockets are on ebay for approx £65 then some cheaper ones for 30ish.[Are these any good ?]. If I take it to a dealer, then they will want me to buy the tyres off them.
See the recent nut thread on the mutistrada forum. If it is done up to the correct torque; then a 1/2 drive multi-socket (does front and rears) is fine (circa £40 for a good one). If it is too tight then you'll need a 3/4 drive and matching socket.
Your not that far from me. Just up the a38 at Sutton. If you want to get your own tyre then I'm happy to fit it for you on a labour only basis. Have the right gear to balance it properly to. Drop me a pm if you like.
As an accident prone old git, I managed to find the only piece of hard crap on the M1 that was big enough to damage my front wheel without unseating me. It costs £1000 to replace. I therefore use a proper motorcycle tyre-fitter to fit my new tyres, when needed. Lots of well-wishers have offered their services, but I've seen the chipped and scratched rims on their bikes. At £1000 a pop, I will pay the extra £20 to get the job done properly. Internet tyres can be a big saving, but there are very few fitters either willing to fit them or if they do, for only a nominal sum. I think my last pair of O.E spec Pirelli's cost around £150 fitted and balanced and the wheel correctly adjusted and torqued up. In my innocence, that seemed good value to me.
Me & my mate have done a fair bit of "research" into this over the last few months since we both bought 1199 track bikes. Seems from the factory the rear nut is 240Nm. Ridiculous. The race teams, once they get the wheel nuts off, put them back on at 180Nm. To manually remove a nut at 240Nm needs a 3/4 drive, a 55mm steel (not ally) socket and a 6ft bar (or 3ft plus scaffolding tube), plus some mechanism to lock the wheel (foot on rear brake), weight over rear of bike. Really, really hard work. My friend bought am air wrench of eBay for £70 and after a few attempts in succession the nut came off. Result. Putting it back on, do not use the air wrench. Torqued it back up to 180Nm manually. Did 2.5 days on track, no problems. Hope that helps.
Danos summary sounds exactly right. That's what I found too. Couldn't undo the rear nut myself, don't have a 3ft scaffold pole, gave up took it to a tyre shop...they struggled.
What Dano said ^ In the absence of a 6 foot bar then you need a person to bounce up and down standing on the end of the breaker bar (thanks to @Desmo Dave for that pearl of wisdom in Jerez!!). What could go wrong eh?!
Get mine off with a breaker bar and if needed a bit of pipe over that with the misses standing on the rear brake. My torque wrench only goes to 200 so get to that then a bit more of a tweak :smile:
My local dealer uses a torque multiplier when he goes racing. Makes removing the torqued up nut a doddle. Just don't use it when tightening the nut again.
Yo Guys. Managed to get it off quite easily ? Got me Be-ach standing on the brake, and a 6 foot scaffold pole on the wrench. Tried just standing on the wrench, but wasn't avin it. Was dreading it not coming off. Sorted !!
Bugger this is hard!!! Ok I have 2ft breaker bar and a 3ft bit of scaffold pole with Mrs T stood on the rear brake. All that's happening is the bike is moving!!!! Might be a daft question but it is standard thread and not the other way?
I use a Clarke 240V impact wrench (£65) with a 55mm Elora bi-hex socket (£15) on my 1098. It's the same torque as an 1199 I believe. It comes off in seconds.
I bought one of those Clarke impact wrenches and it wouldn't budge the rear Panigale nut after it had been done up mega tight by one of the garages. I spent money on the longest breaker bar I could find after that, I think it was four foot?
