Drill out the Allen bolts, I've done it a few times, 8mm bit if I remember, then a 10 to get the head off. Be careful not to drill down into the alloy. The stud will come out with grips.
Looks to me like those caliper bolts are TORX socket head........Anyway, find a big TORX bit and thump it into the socket......they might move. Steering lock grub screws..........they stop your handlebars etc from hitting the tank or trapping your hand between the tank and the clip ons. The carbed SS has a poxy lock to lock. Change that front sprocket retaining plate.
Totally agree. Hammering in a torx bit of the right size should enable you to remove a rounded Allen bolt SS lock is lousy, no way round it.
Not very much done this week and weekend. It was my kid's Open Day at school and my son had to present his Science Project (he's done a very neat Particle Accelerator with some electro magnets and Arduino robotics CPU's... Cooool!!) so I had to give him a helping hand.. I'm progressing with the stubborn bolts on the calipers. The rear one is already out, but the right front one is still challenging
Also finished dismantling clip ons. Bottles seem to be in good shape other than the remains of paint from previous paintworks. I will carefully clean them and there won't be a need for anodyzing again. Also no visible scratches or chips. I'v noticed that the choke lever is bolted to the clutch lever and reservoir piece. This makes the idea of changing the levers for radials a bit more difficult as the radials do not have threads to put the choke thingy. ¿are there any universal choke levers that don't need to be attached to anything? Finally, the clip ons have a very rised bar to my opinion. Is this normal and mandatory or can they be changed for lower ones. I'm a tall guy almost 6,5 feet tall and I don't need bars very high. This is going very sloooow... Tom
Risers look STD to me, I did have radials on my 750 for a while, just kept the STD chock leaver, Jamed it between the control gear and the clutch radial.
A bit more posting, though the project is reaching the point where money needs to begin be spent Down pipes where removed, General status is very good with no apparent rust, ditches or holes. They will be sent to sand blast and ceramic coating The rubber dumpers that hold the oil cooler where rotten and broken (cooler was hold in place with plastic binders...) I removed them with pliers and looked for suitable spares. Ducati parts are awesome expensive, even this very standard hardware. So I did a bit of internet digging and foudn this ones that cost a fraction of the price of the Duc ones. Here is the link if someone is intrested Anti Vibration Mounts - Male Female Thread (WDS 711), Anti-Vibration Mounts | WDS part number that will fit the 750ss is 711-252055 Next was removing the fuel pump and fuel filter as the tank has a very noticeable dent that need to be reparied. Not very much rust in the inside, but I will use Pro15 to fully seal it now that is open. Pump and filter are in very good shape, but I will change this arrangement to an external fuel filter. Easier to repalce when serviced. By the way, can somebody tell me what is the exact pipe size for the fuel lines? Is it 8x14 or 7x13?. The bike has both sizes installed in some sort of random design. I guess it should be only one size. Not much done for this week and not more for the incoming. I'm entering the travelling season of my work and shall be out of home for a couple of weeks. Tom
You should find the bore of the fuel pipes is 8mm. By the way...........there is a tiny filter in the T-piece where the fuel line splits to each carb.
Adecarcer, Whatever size it is I believe you need the correct grade for fully submerging in fuel "R10". See below - I got this from somewhere. Fuel Transfer Hose (SAE J30R2), Fuel Feed/Transfer Hoses (SAE J30 R6,7,8), Fuel Injection Hose (SAE J30R9), In-Tank low pressure Fuel Hose (SAE J30R10), Low Permeation Fuel Fill and Vent (Vapor) Hose (SAE J30R11), Low Permeation Fuel Fill and Return Hose (SAE J30R12), Radiator Hose (SAE J20R4), Brake Hose (SAE J1401), Power Steering Hose (SAE J2050), AC Hose (SAE J51-SAE J 2064), Windshield washer Hose (SAE J1037), Transmission Fluid Hose (SAE J2050), Heater Hose (SAE J20R3), Oil Hose (SAE J30R2-5) Cheers Gaz
Wow! It's been almost one full month without any update (it will take time) In the meantime, very little has been done. Fully stripped the oil cooler, cleaned it and now is ready to paint while new brided hoses and connectors are on their way. The only work done so far has been rising the bike to a frame made out of two steel sawhorses I "borrowed" from my brother. Supports the bike weight without effort, gives sufficient clearance to unassemble forks, and helps working underneath the engine till it is fully taken apart. While at it, I sadly noticed that this frame had been previously repaired (not very well) from some cracks... Too bad... I ordered more than one month ago the frame braces from Steve Bailey and - though at the begining of the transaction, communication with him was quick and helpful - It's been more than 6 weeks since I ordered the braces and he has not responded any of my e-mails asking for information on when can I expect the braces to be received. Neither he answers the phone and I have also sent him mails claiming my money back and... also no response. Sorry to say, but is the worst seller I have ever met. Today he's got my money and gives no answers to any of my requests. I don't know if any of you has had similar bad experiencies with this guy, but I would very much discourage anybody trying to buy from him as he seems to be extremely informal with his clients. I'm thinking in opening a full post on this topic if I get no answers from him or my money back by the begining of next week.
Also removed front forks to be sent to re-anodyze and paint And also found that the previous owner had changed the bolts on one of the rotors with a full head one (instead of the low head allen bolts required) This shinny bastard portrudes too much, and has totally eaten the speedo flywheel (that is why it was loose) Here you can see how the cable bearing has been "eaten" by that bolt. Most probably will have to fully replace the thing. Buffff... not a very good month at the end. I sincerey expect Steve Bailey will show some sings of life. It's taken almost 100 euros from my wallet and - worst of it - I really need that frame brace.. Any body here knows from another possible cure for those frame cracks.? Thank you for standing my whinning..
I was a member of the Yahoo SS group for a long time and don't remember any definitive method of fixing the frame cracks once they are there. I was lucky enough to get a free replacement frame from Ducati but I think I may have had the last free one they supplied. Some folk say that wheelies are what crack the frame but I think it's just the harsh front suspension making the frame flex because the forks are so stiff and something has to give. I put lighter fork oil in to get the the forks to actually work and therefore make the frame flex less but I would have bought one of these braces had it been available. What a shame that you are having so much trouble...
Good luck with the project, I have had fun and games with speedo drives, they all have that bit cut away to clear the disc bolts. Is the drive loose on the axle? Have you got the correct size drive? If you have a 17mm axle then the drive should be the same.
Yes, both axle and inner bore of the speedo drive are 17mm. When I bought the bike It was loose on the axle and you could hear a consistent "bump" when rding coming from there (the bolt kicking the drive). My doubt is if it is broken or should it be working again once the bolt is changed. By the way. How does the speedo drive stays in place against the disk? Is it just by the "pressure" of the fork? or should it have some kind of "stopper" to avoid it to spin around the axle? Sorry for my awful english. Is difficult to find the propper words to describe things related to mechanics.
The speedo drive is kept in place by tightening the axle. Despite the damage to the speedo cable bit, it doesn't look severe, so I would expect it to work OK once you have changed the bolt. Steve Bailey is usually pretty good at getting stuff sent out........He is a member of this forum and another..........but sorry, I can't remember his forum name ('Red...' something)....so if someone can recall it you could try private messages via the forums.......Also his near mate is 'Imola' so he may be able to contact him if you also try the PM method.
That size speedo drive the drive plate in the wheel and the thin dust seal that holds it in are not available new.
If very carefully done, either find an O ring the same diameter as the dust/grease seal or find one that is too large (or even two that are too small).......then dig the old (rubber)seal out of the metal housing (best done while it is place in the wheel to avoid distortion)...follow up by pushing the new O ring into place and join cuts if any with Supaglue...... If badly worn, it is possible to leave the old rubber in place and push the new one in on top of it..... Also if not badly worn, try finding a socket that is smaller than the OD of the metal part of the seal, but a bit larger than the ID......centre the socket carefully on the metal part so that none of the socket is over the outside edge of the metal, then give it a bit of a squeeze in a vice, so it make the rubber ID a bit tighter. I have done all three methods, so I know it works....
Dang! thank you Al, but I'm totally unable to figure out your explanation. You have a lot of knowledge, but some words are difficult for me to "convert" into recognizable parts and some other are too complex. Maybe a little drawing or doodle could help. Nevertheless thank you all for your support and quick responses. New clip ons arriving tomorrow... I'll post pictures.
There are about three seal types for these wheels, so depending on which one you have, you may be able to do this............ ....this type has to be removed from the wheel to get at the back of the seal, so don't bend it getting it out.
Good thanks! thats very clear. By the way, no chances in getting any response from Steve Bailey. No answer to private posts, no answer to phone calls, no nothing... Really pissed of about his attitude. Now I'm trying to make up my mind that my money has been busted, and still have the problem on how to get a similar solution for the frame braces. I'm thinking on soldering a brace in bettween both sides (similar to what Steve "apparently" sells but welded instead of bolted) grrrr... I work with clients (as most probably everyone of us does) and I always service my clients well. I heat being burgled
