Watcha. This is regarding my 1996 Monster M600 (carbs) I'm a competent mechanic, electrics...I'm only okay at (I'm not great with proper electrical diagrams, but draw and idiot sheet style, and I'm fine. Any help will need to be kept as simple as possible to start with until I get my bearings with all the parts on the electrical system) Bike is well out of warranty. So, following on from my hello thread where I mentioned some headaches; here's my first. I've got the loom back in the bike, new battery fully charged (I've not got any of the lights, indicators or brake switches wired up just yet) When I turn the key I get some of the idiot lights light up (Neutral Lamp, Triangle and Oil) However, when I go to try the starter I get nothing, not a bean. I've tried putting a test lamp on the connections with no joy. It's the same with the left hand switchgear. again, with a test lamp, I'm not getting any signs of power when I try the lights, indicators or horn. The horn itself works, because I wired it straight to the battery to test. I've given the connections a good clean and I've had the switchgear apart to clean as well, still nothing. All Fuses are correct and all are in working order. Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Does it have a safety relay triggered by the side stand? If so you may want to check it is working. If not it is probably the main relay (the yellow one?)
I don't know if there is a relay that works with the side stand switch. The switch itself is new, as the old one was seized. I have it plugged in, and have tried with side stand up and down (shouldn't matter, should still start) I'll try replacing the yellow relay and I'll report back. Thanks for the suggestion.
If you not getting a few things not working,perhaps it is something that may affect a few things.Make sure all earths are good.ie from loom to frame and frame to battery.Could try with a battery jump lead from battery,just to try.
Shane, the usual arrangement is the side stand triggers a relay which supplies voltage to the rh switchgear. With the switch in the run position that energizes the starter button and allows power to the fuel pump and ecu. The relay on many bikes is one of a group of three down by the battery, the others are the main 40A one (yellow|) and the indicator flasher unit. If that relay is not getting energized you either have no power for the stand switch or the relay is fecked
Ah, so you're referring to the Starter solenoid/relay under the battery (Positive lead from battery to solenoid, other lead from solenoid to starter motor)? I believe that is working because when I first wired that up, I had the negative battery lead connected to the same pin as the lead to the starter motor, and as soon as I turned the ignition on, the starter motor spun and then popped its fuse. I then wired the battery negative cable correctly (earthed to a point on the frame) and that was when I got some of the idiot lights illuminated and the starter didn't spin up as soon as the key was turned (and the new fuse didn't pop) I did try a new relay to replace the main (yellow) one, but the one I bought didn't work, I had no idiot lights. Put the yellow one back in and the idiot lights worked again. Where does the power for the side stand switch come from? (probably a stupid question) the switch itself is new (and I believe it's working, because I plugged it into the fuel sender plug, and when I pressed the switch, the fuel light on the clocks turned on and off as I depressed and released the switch.) Is there a way to test the main relay and also the starter solenoid/relay to make sure they are both definitely okay?
I will go back and check the earth points. I do have one at the front of the loom by the headstock I'm not sure is correct. It's the same size as the one that earths to the regulator/rectifier. I have had this attached to the same point as the regulator/rectifier earth, but I'm now thinking this one should go the the frame somewhere? As for the jump lead test, where am I attaching each end to carry out this test (apologies. I'm confident enough to have a go at this kind of stuff, I just need it explained in pretty simple terms)
The side stand switch on your model only lights up the warning light. It has no effect on the starter or ignition. Fuse no. 1 is the main fuse from the battery and should be live at both sides all of the time ignition on or off. Assuming the main (yellow) relay works the other fuses should all be live at ignition on. If not the relay could be faulty. Fuse no. 2 provides power to the engine stop switch which, as long as it is on, feeds the ignition circuit and the starter button. Pressing the button should provide 12V the solenoid coil, the other side of which should be earthed. Make sure the connector to the solenoid is plugged fully home. Fuse no. 3 provides power to the lighting circuits. Fuse no. 4 provides power to the indicators and warning lights. Since the oil pressure and neutral lights come on this suggests that there is power there and the relay is working. Fuse no. 5 provides power to the horn and brake light circuits (violet/black wires). The other wire from the horn is green which goes to the LH switchgear. This wire should get grounded when the horn button is pressed. The LH switch gear has a flying lead (black or possibly green) which must be connected to an earth point to provide the horn button earth. Hope that helps.
Thanks for all the input so far. I found a great little starter trouble shooting thread on another forum, followed the instructions and I've narrowed it down to a faulty starter solenoid. Do any of you guys have links to good parts sites where I can find a new solenoid? There's a few on eBay, they're all in America and they're all used, so there's still no guarantees.
Stein Dinse in Germany do them at a good price Duc Anlassermagnetschalter 600SS-916 - Stein-Dinse Online-Shop
