I had just serviced my new to me bike, 1098, 08, belts and all, and the vertical belt let go on track during downshift, there was a post about this earlier, however since I have contacted Ducati UK, as there was a recall with the tensioners, it does look like the tensioner let go!! anyway the engine/vin numbers are not even close to the affected bikes. So my fear was that the piston hit the valves and damaged the engine, I have since completed a leak down test and its fine, no leakage which was a massive relief. My issue now is that something is still wrong, I have the timing marks from the horizontal belts and they line up fine, as for the rear belt it shredded itself so I have to reset it without the knowledge of the marks from the old belt. Everything seems to line up with the rear cylinder, the cam dot and washer hole line up, to suggest the camshaft did not slip, when I install the rear belt with the cams T-Slots at 5 O'clock, I turn the engine over by the rear wheel, at TDC there is a tight spot as if it's just touching a valve?? It will turn past this point no problems just that it just doesn't quiet feel right. I have also tried at various other positions, 1 tooth either way and it gets worse. I have put up pictures of my settings. Any help would be greatly appreciated, don't know if I am overlooking something simple???? Thank you
Interesting post and piccies. I do all my own spannering except the engine, I leave that to the experts. I'm sure there are some clued up guys on here that will give good advice. Needless to say, don't thrash it til you're 100% happy with it. I'll watch this post with interest.
i wont pretend to know the ducati foibles but sometimes the damage will occur above the stem. if your satisfied the timing is correct and the cam or crank pulleys haven't turned on their shafts and your still concerned. if i was taking cash off of somebody for this i would check clearances before anything else.albeit v.rare i have seen bent con rods after belts let go.
Your leakdown test is o.k so probably valves are seating correctly. I would whip the cam covers off and look to see if the valves are doing what they should be doing, when they should be doing it! It's been a while scince I have done this, but I did find it a good idea to fix a timing disc on the crankshaft so I could check things were happening when they were meant too. You will of course feel more resistance turning the wheel, even with the plugs out, as the piston approaches tdc, reaches tdc, and the piston starts to descend in the bore.
Do you still have the shredded belt? Or any pictures of it. It's unusual for the belt to be the primary cause of an engine failure unless over tightened or very slack.
I was thinking of removing he head but I think first point is as mentioned above to check the cam and valve opening times etc. will have a go tomorrow night and see what I can see. Pictures of belts.
Thanks crystal john I hsve seen this I had a 749 for years and did the belts several times in that and my mates 749 then his 999, my s2r monster. Over the past 10 odd years I have done belts on ducats nearly every year. This is the first problem I've had.
Presume the vertical cylinder is Deffo on the firing stroke , not exhaust stroke when the belt was fitted?
So in your picture that is the reminants of the vertical belt which totally disintegrated? No subsequent cause found as yet?
Yes it's the vertical. The belt didn't actually break and when I lined up the timing points before removal it looked maybe one tooth out. I beleive the tensioner was at fault as there was pulley marks on the belt cover. I sent these pictures to Ducati mechanics and they believed the same.
It's difficult to call just from the photos but the T slots just don't look quite right to me. The horizontal looks a fraction out, but the rear, to my eyes anyhow should be closer to 4 o'clock. The paint marks, if previously made, can be misleading. I've had bikes thru the shop with marks in place, that after I've fitted new belts have been nowhere close. The cam pulleys have enough movement in them to be +/- 1 tooth from correct. Unless you can be 100% on the old installation, aligning the the timing is only guaranteed with the locking tools in place. Are the pictures all of the same engine? The pulleys in the first pictures look to be the later 1198 alloy ones not the plastic 1098 ones in the post belt failure photos? If the leak down test is proving good, the resistance to turn smoothly could be a slightly bent valve and maybe some guide damage. Not too hard to inspect but the head will need to be off to rectify.
Thanks for the reply the engine is the same. I have replace the belt tensioner pulley and static pulley with the newer alloy ones.
if you dont want to pull the head just yet. you could lower the piston in the bore remove the belt and turn the cams by hand to get a feel for operation. if a tight spot apparent. damage likely
