I would not pay that when I can get full synthetic for around half that price. But oil might be more expensive in the UK these days.
Fully synthetic for your 749. People sneer at Silkolene but I use it if it is well-priced and have no problems. Mind you, I tend to change my oil every 3000 miles rather than the recommended 6000 miles.
Shell Advance Ultra 10W-40 for my ducs. Fully Synth. 2 x 4litre for about £50 inc nx day delivery on eBay. I use genuine filters as advised some pattern ones are nfg.
get fully synthetic.. but as Bob t said oil maybe more money in the Uk these days. I lavish Motul 300v with our customers bikes, but Motul 5W40 fully synthetic would be fine and a lot cheaper.
Motul 7100V is fully synthetic and cheaper than factory line 300V which is really meant for racing use although of course you can use it on the road. 5100V is only semi synthetic. On ebay there are listings for 4 litres of 7100V and an HiFlo filter for £39.95.
I did read somewhere that using racing oil in a road bike is not necessarily a good idea because road bike oils have additives for anti corrosion, longevity etc that racing oils don't have.
This is what Motul quote on their website for 300V. Application: Racing - Factory Line Engine Type: 4-Stroke Quality: 100% Synthetic Product Range: Motorcycle Viscosity: 10W40 OEM Approvals : Above Existing standards 100% synthetic 4-Stroke motorcycle racing lubricant developed for Factory Teams. 300V Factory Line lubricant takes advantage of the ESTER Core® Technology to ensure you maximum power output of the engine without compromising the reliability and the wear. By selecting esters over other high performance synthetic base stocks and combining them with an innovative additive package, MOTUL has created a perfect synergy dedicated to the engine, the gearbox and the clutch. Motul also have a part of the site where you can ask for their recommendation for road use of Ducati models, in this case (749) they suggest 7100V. Which oil for my engine?
Spot on there for the oil source. If you are passing this way then you are welcome to pop in. I can get oil and filter and we could do a change should you need it. I am about 25 kms SE of Perigueux.
Red, I see what you are saying about what is reads on the Motul website but remember that what you read is advertising designed to get you to part with your money. No oil companies are making anything that they can prove is any better than other oil companies - the API specs show that, Every oil company is trying to write something more sensational than other oil producers so that you buy their oil thinking it is going to be twice as good. In reality I would guess that any two oils within the same API spec and of the same viscosity will be the same to within 0.5% of each other.
Sorry not to have responded to this really kind offer, Bob but have only just got home and found it. I was crossing "Le Nord...", so was nowhere near your neck of the woods. The weather was horrendous with seriously strong winds and really heavy rain, so I was very glad to be in the 320d, rather than on the 999. On the subject of oil spec, I am seriously considering going for non motorcycle-specific oil next time, as the main difference seems to be that the bike oil is designed for wet clutches, so has less in the way of friction modifiers in it. As we have dry clutches, I can't help thinking we might be better off with a high quality fully synthetic oil that is not specifically designed for a wet clutch. Any thoughts on this??
Wise decision, come to France by car and come with a diesel, much cheaper over here. I have used full synthetic oil in all my bikes for years. Most of my previous bikes were dry clutch BMWs, but the wifes BMW F800ST is a wet clutch and I use it in that too. BMW now says that you can use full synthetic in that. I think the clutch problem was with a very small percentage of wet clutch bikes, but those owners affected make the most noise, so seem to be in the majority when you look on the web. I have never directly known anyone with a wet clutch bike who suffered clutch slip because of synthetic oil. It is in my 2010 SBK 848 and that is a wet clutch. Better to buy a full synthetic 5w40 that comes with the latest API spec for €25 a can (5 litres) than use anything else in my opinion. I have said many times that there are no crap oils out there, they are all good and some may be "better", but I would doubt if any is more than 0.5% "better" than the norm. The thing with a fully synthetic is its ability to withstand much higher temperatures than other oils without the oil breaking down. Don't worry too much about the 5w40 as the 40 is the bit that matters and the oil is at the 40 bit for 99.9% of engine running time. It is only at the 5 bit on a cold start and that is when you want it thin to get around the engine quicker. I would also run a 5w50 with no worries, but would draw the line at anything with the number 60 in it, as it will be expensive and too thick when at running temperature. Too thick means too high a pressure (Just like blood pressure), and there would be more chance of doing damage to oil pumps and lines etc. In my opinion you are more likely to suffer a catastrophic oil related failure with an engine due to mechanical oil system problems rather than choosing the wrong oil. At the end of the day it is an individuals choice to decide what oil he uses, but never forget that oil companies do not spend millions of pounds trying to make the nicest and best oil for you, they are a business and all they are doing is trying to get your money off you, if they can persuade you that their oil is better then they will have achieved their aims.
