I must admit, if mine does not not catch on first fire it really does want to start, Happened twice in like 2k miles, and can take quite a lot of winding, but I thought that was more fuel issues as like flooding, it does always start though
hmm interesting, I thought everything in UK has a year warranty, and odd as a lot of batteries have a few years, tbh if a battery only lasts 7 months think you have a pretty good case it was was designed for the job hence should be replaced
Sale of goods act says things have to last a 'reasonable' length of time. 7 months for a battery is not reasonable, so the retailer should be obliged to replace it even if the manufacturers warranty doesn't say so.
I agree with all that say a battery should at least last for the duration of a warranty. But I must confess that since the advent of alarms/trackers/NASA technology (as in the case of DVT-S), I feel compelled to continually connect an Optimate. The latest one I have can charge cars/vans too (version 6). I noticed that if I left my GPS datalogger dongle connected to my 1199S Tri it would flatten the battery in under 48hrs! For me, an Optimate is now a necessity... Or one of these:
Our retailer has 6 month warranty for motorcycle battery.. So that was the last battery I bought from that company. I thought that Yuasa is quality battery company but my opinion has changed.
Sure I read somewhere on this forum bradders, that if its cold you should switch your lights on for a short while before trying to start bike with a Lithium battery.
I've had Shorai on my 1100 Hyper for over two years now. Afetr the original battery died I went for a lithium for a couple of reasons: smaller size was the best way to make the room to squeeze a Power Commander under the seat and the 2.5kg saved was in a relatively high location. No issues at all - tho' I did go for the 18ah version just in case I started using the bike a bit more in cold weather (didn't happen...). Even when the bike is left for a few weeks without use it starts without hesitation - provided the battery is 'woken up' first (headlight on first for a couple of minutes). If it suits your circumstances I'd go for it.
This morning - I wheeled bike out the garage - locked up got on and tried starting bike. It turned, fired - but did not catch. 2 repeated attempts to start it only for a few seconds as it was 4.30am - and it failed to start - then I realised the headlight was on - which normally does not come on till after the bike starts. - Then I realised I had flicked the high beam on accidentally - so I turned that off. So I powered off, powered back up (no light) then it started no issue. So it seems that the battery (even after coming off a battery tender) has only just enough juice to turn over and run ignition and fuel pump. Having the headlight on - takes enough power away to stop this effectively starting. Just something for you all to be aware of.
I'm pretty sure my headlamp comes on when the bike is switched on, and stays on for a minute(maybe less). If the bike is still not started, then it goes off, presumably to save power? Edit: having just checked, I see it's just the park lights that come on at switch on. I think you are maybe drawing too many conclusions from your observation. Mine did this today also, turned, fired, did not catch, then wouldn't fire up despite cranking. Just switched off bike, waited two minutes, then it fired right up.
Here is my tale of woe angst and horror... Bought a Supersport SS1000DS from a plonker in the dark (I'm the bigger plonker, right), he always had trouble with the fucker starting. I did too. Even after checking every-bloody-thing-there-is-to-check. At least twice. Then the bloody sprag bearing failed (you hear the high pitched electric starter motor spinning but the engine doesn't turn over). Anyway, both the dealer and the USA forum said to replace all the starter ring gear etc along with the sprag bearing. Great, even more spend on this piece of shit bastard starting fuckin fuckin. Etc. Did the job and in one hit all my starting problems with that bike are over. Can't fuckin believe it. I no longer felt confident I could take the bike anywhere as I couldn't be sure enough it would start again before the battery went flat. Which it did all too quickly. The other thing it did was backfire like a fucker through the throttle bodies when I was trying to start it. Another symptom was it would feel slightly 'slow' (engine turning over) when a cylinder came up to compression (perhaps eh, didn't actually check this but that's what it felt like - like bringing a kick start bike up to compression). Another symptom was that it would generally require at least 50% throttle opening before it would start. Poor thing would spurt into life at like 5 or 6 thousand RPM... Yeah, jeez! It would flatten the battery in no time. Fuckin thing. Now I press the button without touching the throttle, it starts, I walk away, it idles. Just as it should be. Had NO idea a worn starter ring gear/flange/bearing etc could cause those symptoms. Maybe I'm the only one in the world that didn't know that. Just glad I do now. YMMV Edit: as it's been mentioned in this thread - this bike also has a Lithium Ion battery. Now there is no stress on the battery. Motor spins fast, instantly.
So I've just actually read this interesting thread. I lied about one of those. If you've never lifted a Li-Ion battery for big Ducatis in one hand and compared it to the same with a uarser or whatever lead acid then you're missing out. It's like the lithium battery is a super lightweight empty box by comparison. Lithium batteries are also just fine with cold starts ime as !long as the starting circuit both electrical an mechanical are fit. When they're not, they'll knacker a lead battery anyway, what's the difference? Now the prices have come down significantly, and the technology has also improved significantly, I can't see me ever buying a lead acid battery for a bike again. If fuel is getting into the heads at the right time, and the sparks are happening with the valves in the right place at the right time, the bugger should start. If you have eliminated water in your fuel (sits at the bottom of the tank) then a check of the mechanical starter assembly is certainly something I'll check next time.
