1198 Xenon Light Installation. Is This Correct?

Discussion in '848 / 1098 / 1198' started by RacingDuck, Aug 30, 2015.

  1. Is this correct connection between red and black wire from the new HID Xenon bulb to original head light?
    The xenon wires have no "socket" to fit in the original socket.

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  2. That is the way that I have done it. If it does not work just reverse the wires. You can buy H11 leads from ebay that just plug in, but the last mod on mine was to cut off the plug and fit Lucar connectors to the cables on the bike.
    I have just fitted a bi xenon to the spare light and will blog that soon.
     
  3. That looks like your high beam and I would not fit one to my high beam, just to my dip. You will lose the flash as a HID takes time to warm up and is not instant on.
    White wire is positive on main.
     
  4. Thank's Bob T.
    You are correct it is my high beam and it does not flash:confused:
    I just had to test the Xenon light on one side to see if I could get it working. It did so I just have to figure out a way to connect or to buy som new leads.
     
  5. My temporary dip beam HID is wired just like your picture, with heat shrink and tywraps to hold it together.
    The spare modified light that I am building has a bi-xenon projector in the dip beam side so I have cut the plug off and put some proper connectors onto it.
    There are some pictures of all of this stuff on the last few posts on my blog, link below.
     
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  6. Well despite all the dire warnings that the sky will fall if you install one to your Hi Beam, I have Xenon in both beams and have no issues. You do of course lose instant flash but hold it on for a second or two and the bulb does fire enough to register and my system is old, the technology I'm sure now will have them warming even faster.

    Anyway that's not why I posted, there are plugs admittedly a bit hard to source but they are available that you can purchase to make the connection secure. The pins just install in to the plug. I'd recommend getting them, losing you're Lo beam in the dark could have you looking for somebody who will clean your leathers.

    I had to get mine from the US but as the cost is small you won't get stung for customs charge - H11 male plug

    H11 Male Connector | eBay
     
  7. Thank's Old Jock.
    Just bough some connections here in Norway. But where do you hide your ballast? Is the ballast going to get really hot?
    Have only mounted the high beam xenon bulb for some testing and it fires immediately when using the flash button. Stock Halogen bulb on low beam side.
     
  8. Ballasts on mine get warm but not hot, never had an issue.

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  9. Should add that with that setup I had to move the clip on's up a little. Its not completely idea. Another guy managed to get all the boxes into the front of the light unit but I could not manage it. I've also seen pictures of them installed in the faring lower down behind the light unit. Its cramped but there is space, just takes a bit of routing around
     
  10. Oh one more thing you might already know about. I put the igniters on top of the headlight unit with Dual Loc it's like Velcro on steroids.

    If using it be careful and search around there are several different types varying adhesion strength. You can get the strongest and you can remove it with a heat gun and some solvent, it won't damage the light unit.
     
  11. I am trying to remove my instrument panel to maybe place both ballasts there as you have. Not figured it out at the moment...... :Depressed:
     
  12. Thank`s, will look into it later today.
     
  13. I have put my ballast on the right hand side behind the black triangle on the inside of the mid fairing, the igniter is built in on the modern units and not a separate box.
    I only need one with mine as it is a bi-xenon projector so dip and main are both in the right side and the left is an extra halogen (but modified) main beam only.
     
  14. Only problem I see using the black triangle inside the fairing is when you need to remove the fairing. Will there be trouble with all the wires and stuff making the fairing removal a lot more difficult?
    I found these pictures on the web, looks pretty nice.

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  15. Like mine, but, the latest ballasts are smaller and do not have the small igniter box any more as that is built in, see the pictures of the latest ballasts on my blog. That means that there is plenty of room to fit it in there in any position and location that you want.
    The power in wire plugs into the top of the ballast so is easy to unplug and the two wires to the HID bulb also unplug making fairing removal just a couple of plugs more difficult.
     
  16. Thank's. Don't have the latest kit obviously as I have a big separate igniter box much the same as my picture. Will try to fit all behind the plastic when time is on my side...:)
     
  17. This is where I fitted mine yesterday, out of the way, wiring nice and tidy, and should get sufficient air flow to stay cool. Just need a H11 plug (on order) and some cable protection for the first bit from the lamp to the small plug, which I'll get tomorrow.
     
  18. Mine is fitted behind the black plastic triangle as well now. Only need to figure out how to keep the connections away from the fork legs. Quite tight space in that area.
    What an improvement in vision! Using 35w/6000k.
     
  19. I ran mine over the intake tube, but under the top fairing trim and then straight down to the near fairing trim where the ballast is mounted - no where near the forks then.
     
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