Hi Guys Well, i'm on to thinking about insulation. My garage is timber frame and treated shiplap clad. I want to put something between the frame and roof joists then board the inside. Would it be OK to put Polystyrene insulation board in: 40mm EPS70 Polystyrene Insulation Board Kay-Metzeler (pack of 8) as it is 1/2 the price of normal foil backed insulation board. 40mm Xtratherm PIR Rigid Insulation Board Thanks
The thing about insulation is that if it is permeable and warm moist air from the inside percolates through to the cold outside and condenses it can cause rot to get a hold. Therefore some sort of impermeable membrane is required on the warm side unless the cold side of the insulation is well ventilated. How this fits into your situation I have no idea, but these are the principles to apply.
a mate of mine used polystyrene blocks in his tin...em.. shed. sorry. stopped condensation kept it cosy warm.
Yep, double clad the wall by building an inner wooden wall - insulating the gap leaving a bit of an air gap too, this will have the added advantage of turning your shed into a timber garage
I'm going to board the single pain window in the apex over, but that may be next year as I have run out of weather. Finishing the main door side this weekend. Going to fit blackout blinds to help stabilize temperature when the sun comes up on those cold crisp winter mornings. You were not far off on your £1k estimate. About £1200 including a new felt roof.
Do yourself a favour - don't use polystyrene. It's not that great as an insulator, is not permeable, and is highly flamambe - giving off REALLY nasty fumes if it does burn. With a wooden building it's more than possible to get good results using 25mm Cellotex insulation. It is easy to cut with a kitchen bread-knife (that's what we used on ships when I worked in the insulation and textiles department in the dockyard). Cut it to fit snugly between the beams of the shed/garage; put small spacer battens in behind it to ensure there is an air gap between the insluation and the wooden wall; then either clad the insde with plywood or, if you want a nice interior finish, with foil-backed plasterboard. The same can be done in the interior roof panels, It takes a bit of time and effort, but it's well worth it. The other advantage of doing this is that all the cabling for sockets, switches and lights can be run behind the cladding and it all looks very profesional and tidy. Remember to put ventilation grilles in (best place is just under the eaves at both ends) to allow air to circulate and prevent condensation. A few years ago I did exactly this to insulate a 16' x 8' "office" built in a garden. 90% of the time just switching the lights on generates enough heat to keep it warm enough to work in - only when it gets really cold is a heater required... The other "top tip" is to insulate the floor. I put cheap laminate flooring down with a thin thermal barrier below it. That helps a lot too - most of the cold comes in from below, and most of the heat lost is through the roof... All of the things required are available from good DIY shops. As far as the Cellotex goes, if you buy it from Wykes they often do discounts where five panels are slightly cheaper than four (strange, I know) and/or they deliver, so you don't end up trying to fit 4' x 8' panels into your car...
Don't have one. I'm not worried about it being warm for working in, I just want it dry and to avoid dew point on the bikes/tools. and boarding the inside makes it look like a man cave rather than a garage of wood construction.
I did se on a thread elsewhere a bloke wanting to put a garden shed in his garage to store his push bikes in to avoid condensation.
I'm in the same boat mate, have a brick garage built into the hill, one wall is okay as it's between the garages but the other is a brick outside wall which is soaking up lots of water and is just grim. The roof is also asbestos because it's a shared roof and my neighbour is a twat... So far I have put a few coats of water repellent on the brick but I'm going to paint it with black rubberised paint to 'tank it' then use Cellotex and out in a stud wall type thing, however with regards to the roof, I'm just going to paint it with weather proof paint which will hopefully also stop the water from sweating through it. I don't really have a heat source in there, which is what's so hard to work out, but even so the condensation gets really bad! I wondered if insulating the floor would make it better or even worse. As others have said, Cellotex is the way to go
