I thought you had sorted out how you were going to insult your B*stard F***ing Shed? You did say 'insult' didn't you?
I was trying to cut costs some what. The financial director of the household is applying the brakes with Christmas looming (3 more pay days :Nailbiting. I was even told I was not allowed new garage doors so i made my own. It's about 88M/sq so that is 31 boards at 1200mx2400m (not taking into acount wastage and off cuts so would need extra i suspect) and at around £15 a board that is about £450. Then I need to board it.......
You are basically looking at an external wall detail to that specified for timber framed housing. Cellotex is a good product, U-Values and all that, it's expensive though.
From the little I know and have discovered, if you have dirt up against a wall you will have issue. Where I had that everything was rotten as hell so I have dug around the outsides and built retaining walls from pre-treated timber and put plastic sheets between the timber and the dirt. I don't expect it to last forever but have done it in such a way that I can keep an eye on it and repair as needs be before it starts to reach the garage. Regards condensation, i think what you need is constant temperature, it's when it goes cold to hot and you hit 100% relative humidity that you hit dew (not due ) point and water forms on a cold surface. You need the temperature changes to happen slowly. That's why I have put in double glazing to replace the single glazing and will be boarding over the single glazing in the apex. I am also putting in blinds to stop the bright sunshine in the mornings from heating the air quickly inside like a greenhouse. This might be all bollocks, i'm still learning.
Please remember that when you insulate the aforementioned shed. Ensure you have adequate ventilation thus preventing condensation and mould. May I suggest you look at trying to achieve 7 air changes per hour. This should be adequate.
Even with Air Con you still need to introduce fresh air to achieve the air changes. Rough rule of thumb is 10% of the room volume however you can always check with CIBSE guidance or HVCA (Now BESCA)
You can stand in for @AirCon while he is laid up - even if you don't / won't quite have the extent of his knowledge :Bag:
When it comes to my knowledge regarding HVAC. i advice the government and contribute to the F Gas legislative standards. I have also chaired for the HVCA and I am an elected member on the board of CIBSE not to mention I also advice the IET (the old IEE) on recommended amendments to acop. Not bad for a window licker lol
So, this stuff @finm recommends comes in around £325 including the joining tape. Airtec Insulation - Ecohome Insulation Cheapest Ceoltex 25mm comes in about £425. + I will need to get quite a bit of batten. (can I use off cuts of unused shiplap????) Is it better to spend the extra £100?
So actually, and i'm kind of thinking out loud, what you need for a building with no heat source is for it to be waterproof from above, below and the sides, well insulated and as air tight as possible during the evening/night when temperatures are falling then as soon as the sun comes up fling all the doors and windows open to stop condensation.
You've got a lot to answer for then.:Grumpy:When I'm not on powerful drugs can I ask some questions in a PM?:Angelic:
Not as simple as that. Yes you need to keep water and water vapour out and keep a good flow of air to all the building materials. Keeping the inside and stuff inside above the dew point of the introduced air is a great idea. Your wet wall needs a detailed answer. I can't really function at present and writing on a phone is crazy.
It never is. What is the collective wisdom on boarding the inside with plasterboard rather than OSB or plywood? Its coming in about £200 cheaper even with a breathable membrane.
Pulling the weatherboard off is easy...........Now punch the plasterboard............. .........Now go and punch a piece of plywood........ .........feel the difference........?? ....and that's before the plasterboard has soaked up moisture in the atmos and it got softer.
You need to remove the weatherboarding and fix a breather / moisture barrier membrane behind it (preferably re-fix the boards on counter battens). Then treat the weatherboarding to help it 'shed' rain. Insulate betwwen the studs with Jablite or similar rigid insualtion slabs. Then fix a vapour barrier all over the whole insides of the walls.....no gaps, tears etc. 6mm ply (minimum) lining over the barrier. The same thinking applies to the roof as well.........after you have stopped the rain from getting to the decking.
