Hi mate. Sorry for the delay in responding. Only got the bike back on Saturday. Not had use of it all bloody summer. Cost me a bike trip to Italy as well. Ended up (after several failed fixes) with a completely new front cylinder. They believe it's sorted but I think it's still weeping very slightly. Could be residue from the rebuild so I'll be monitoring very carefully over the next week. Also had to have a fork leg replaced and now the fucking fuel sender is playing up!! Why oh why did I trade my 2012 Multey in for this piece of shite!!??
Did you not try the route of rejecting it under the Sale of Gods Act? Not too late to do it now if you didn't previously.
Not sure if this link is in this thread already but it might be of interest - it's about rejecting a vehicle: Frequently Asked Questions | Honest John
In my experience, when somebody goes out of his way to assert openly that he is "honest", the main effect is to call his honesty into question.
Got my bike back today after the valves were totally redone,new guides,seals,reseated etc . Compression back to more normal numbers. Will need to,have the valve clearances checked in 1000 miles.
Hi I have just put a full litre of oil in my 7000 mile dvt. This my 3rd 1200 multistrada and the 1st that has used any oil. The oil was used between 5000 and 7000 miles on a recent trip to Spain.
I'm finding mine uses bit of oil. But it's slowed down. From UK to Italy and back it uses a sight glass's worth. I've done nearly 8000 miles now and had to use a total of a litre. Apparently they're all doing it. Dealer says it might be something to do with the DVT mechanism, but I doubt it. BTW, you can not use a different spec/grade of oil or the DVT might not work properly. To me, as an engineer, the oil has to be going somewhere. I think it's burning because, twice in France slowing down from around 60mph I could smell a really aromatic burning smell. I shall be investigating further. It could be something to do with DVT overlap at a certain RPM with the massive negative pressure on overrun that those big pistons create.
I found mine seems to burn more on the long trips over a few days, and rides on motorways etc. than the miles I do at weekends at home.
I spoke to the Ducati Tech man at the London Motorcycle show today and told him my thoughts about lack of overlap on the DVT engine at medium to low RPM causing the oil to be drawn past the rings under the massive vacuum created on the overrun. He promised to take that idea to the factory next week. If I'm right, it might be corrected with a new engine map to increase the overlap for overrun conditions.
Hi all Just read this thred about burning oil and it seems to me that Ducati's recommend running in is slightly misleading if they think after 600 miles the rings are beaded in then after 5000 Miles they would be worn out!!!. Running an engine in is more about temperature than anything else getting everthing up to Maximum tolerance not restricting rpm, if you do not get the engine hot you increase the chance of glazing the cylinders then you will never get the rings to seal and it will require the cylinders to be honed then you can start the process again, when I got my DVT as soon as it was up to temperature I road it as hard as I could road conditions allowing, then I stopped for 20 minutes then repeated this for a week or so I topped the oil up as it was down to the bottom mark then had the oil changed and road round Europe visiting the factory and only Put 100ml of oil in and never topped it up since (6500) later. Just to put things into perspective if you read the running in procedures for a brand new aircraft engine it says to run it at full throttle for the first 25 hours with a straight 80s oil until It stops burning oil then change it to a multigrade such as a 10/40. So for me I think you should leave the running in oil in much longer and ride it hard until it stops burning oil. (Just my opinion)
My aircraft spends all of its time at 4000 to 5000 rpm and has no need to accelerate and decelerate in the same way that my bike does. I am not allowed to use full throttle on the aircraft till the oil is up to temperature. They are two very different things.
Hi Bob Iam assuming it's a rotax reving so high and for sure you can't take off till the engine is up to temp especially oil temp Min 50deg as for them being different certainly the application is totally different but the way the engine functions Is exactly the same and it's more important to bed the rings in as like you say they run at a more constant speed which makes them more prone to glazing the bores ( where do you fly from?)
Mine used about 1/4 litre from new to first service less the more miles acceptable for new motor Neil
I did pretty much the same as you Kurt. I was very serious for the first 200 miles, up to temperature then loaded the motor in short stints (3rd/4th/5th) from about 3K to 6K, rolled off, then repeat, repeat, repeat (Peak District helps)
