I pushed the bike 848 out of the garage to go for a spin as had new tyres fitted about 3 weeks ago and not been out on it, When i pulled the front brake in there was a tiny bit of brake with full travel on the lever to the grip, with a bit of pumping there was some improvement but soon went, Took it out for a local ride very carefully and not good, got home and took a look there is no leaks to brake system, so i got my fingers and gently moved the disc on the bobbins then went back out again with a much better brake, so i have sprayed a very very small amount of GT85 on the top of each bobbin and letting it run around said bobbins and have been moving the bike every few hours and moving the bobbins with my fingers, also i used a small amount of brake cleaner on a bit of tissue to wipe the disc's, This is the first time i've had a problem like this on a bike, anyone else had the same and am i going in the right direction. Bike done 6k miles.
Sounds like the discs weren't correctly centred when the wheel was put on after the tyre change. Check your manual but for most Ducati's (749/916) the procedure is: - put wheel in without torquing pinch bolts on forks - install callipers just to nip them up - apply brake - I wrap a tie wrap around lever - torque brake bolts - let brake off and bump forks up and down to centre discs on callipers - torque pinch bolts Did you do this?
Oh yes...memory fade due to Friday night Rioja... Tighten the axle nut to the specified torque value at step one.
No Friday night Rioja for me, I'm just thick! So axle in, nut on, tighten L/H leg or R/H leg pinch bolts to tighten axle nut? Just asking as I changed tires not long since and wondering if I did it up right.
No, don't tighten pinch bolts when you first put the axle in. Axle in, tighten axle nut Do the business with applying the brake and tighten the calliper bolts. Then, bounce the front up n' down to centre the wheel and discs. Finally, tighten left and right hand pinch bolts. Obviously, check your manual for your specific bike as I am writing this from memory..albeit from doing it many times on my 749R track bike and 916 (which doesn't need the bit to centre the radial callipers). Hope this helps...hic!
So just the axle T piece / holder jobby to stop the axle spinning then? I think I might have got this all wrong. I followed shazam's guide to doing it but still unsure... Cheers
Ooooer....I wouldn't want to contradict Shazaam. Pretty sure I was just following the manual...same process for 749R and M1100S which both have radial callipers. Seems logical to me and has always worked for me. Put it this way, when I bounce the forks while applying the brake, I can always feel the lever firm up as the discs centre with respect to the callipers. Only after that do I torque the pinch bolts as they hold the axle laterally in the forks.
I think your spot on Ricky, I've been checking it tonight and have a much better brake and i tied the lever back for a few hours and that helped will go for a run Saturday, all bobbins can be turned by hand.
Shazaam is not infallible. IMHO, he is completely wrong about how and why the quiet clutch mod works.
On the bobbins .. if you fit a bolt, nut, washers assembly through the central hole and tighten it up, you can then use the bolt to turn the bobbin while spraying it with brake cleaner (an allen bolt is recommended). Copious amounts of black stuff will probably come out .. an old towel to cover the wheel and catch the drips is desirable.
I hope you removed the GT85 properly! It may get flung out of the bobbins by centrifugal force while riding. Glad it's sorted. Btw, was it a garage that put the wheel in?
Yes was very careful with the GT85, My local bike shop fitted the tyres/put the wheels on. Done about 30 miles today and the new tyres are great want to do about 200 then they should be fine.
Thought i would take the bike out for a ride today as its a dry day, The first time since my last post and I'm back to square one again no front brake my bobbins can be turned with my finger and thumb so plenty of movement and just a bit of pressure from the lever, this time when i keep pumping on the lever it will not build up any pressure but i have clamped it up to see if it helps, i did notice some dried up fluid around the nipple on the master cylinder and the inside of the bleed nipple had fluid in it and inside the cap, it did move a bit when tightened, Im going to drop it off on Saturday to get them to check it over and refit the wheel, i will clean the brakes and it might be a good idea to change the fluid as its still on original i think from 2010,
