There isn't anything obvious that comes to mind, the only thing that could have been disturbed is the pick-up loom as it emerges from the crankcase. Can you backtrack and think of any ignition related connections that you disconnected? Also worth bearing in mind is that the sparks generated as standard aren't the best in the world so battery condition and starter leads are critical here.
Thanks Chris, I'll work my way through all that, figured it wouldn't be anything stand out. Can't think of anything that I've have disturbed but I'll not rule anything out yet.
As an ex SS owner, I can think of a couple of possibilities. First is the kill switch. Iirc, the kill switch on the SS allows the engine to crank but it won't fire. Have you been inside the alternator casing - could you have disturbed the pick ups? I had lots of trouble with the top fuse in the fuse holder to the left of the clocks. It didn't always connect well with the fuse holder. I eventually cured it by packing the fuse holder contacts so they made a decent connection and by making sure the fuse itself was completely flat. I'm not 100% sure that a dodgy connection on that fuse will still allow the engine to crank, it will prevent it from starting though. Easy to check by removing the fuse and trying to crank the motor. If it does still crank, that means that fuse connection is a possible cause. Side stand switch?
I initially got the feeling that the bike was running up until a week or so ago but maybe it has stood for a while? As above plus more if this is the case. Early bikes had a kill switch that isolated ignition only but later circuit isolated starter motor as well so it is easier to find if switch is the problem as the starter won't work either.
Thanks for the info guys, I'll head into tonight's fault finding armed with plenty to check! Bike hasn't been run since June, many issues stacking up and been distracted by another project in the middle. Fuel pump is running fine also so I'm not sure if that's on the same fuse as the ignition side, need to look at the diagrams again. Kill switch does sound like the favourite at this stage.
On my 96 bike, the kill switch, iirc, needed to be centred for the bike to run and could be pushed either to kill the engine. It could look as though it was in the right position but only needed to be slightly off centre to be prevented from running.
So...kill switch is ok, and wiring from there all the way to the coils and ignition control units has continuity. Battery voltage when cranking is 11v which seems healthy enough. Now in the middle of trying to remove the left engine cover to check the pick up and it's stuck solid! All bolts out (only had to drill out 1 ) and the cover is stuck fast despite some persuasion with the rubber mallet. Am I missing something or is my bike being a complete diva?
You probably need to use a puller to get the cover off - simple piece of bar with three holes will do - outer two @ 6mm to thread bolts into the holes for the access cover, and one central threaded one ( I used m8), to screw bolt in against end of crank. I also used a little alloy button under this bolt, to prevent damaging end of crank. BTW, you have taken out the Allen bolt behind the clutch slave?
Obviously, you need to check for continuity from the pick ups, if they have continuity and are undisturbed they should be ok. However, they do need to have the correct air gap and also they need to be correct in terms of degrees around the centre for ignition timing. As I said though, if they've not been disturbed they should be fine. However, it is commonplace on these bikes for the alternator nut to come undone, allowing the flywheel to wobble, which takes out the pick ups. It would be a sensible idea to get some Nichols lock-nuts while you're in there and fit them, so this cannot happen. It is basically two slim nuts instead of one thick one, that lock together so they cannot come undone on their own. You'll have to order them from Nichols Sports Bikes in the US, I don't think anyone stocks them over here.
For all of you waiting on the edge of your seats for the next instalment of the saga here it comes.......
Yup, nothing! Air gap is good, all wiring good, tested every conceivable component, I'm snookered! There's definitely no voltage at the plugs at all, I held onto them while I turned the bike over and it didn't even tickle.
If I remember correctly there is a relay under/around the left hand side of the handle bar That gets corroded and the bike won't start
A true Christmas mystery, If you are sure you have checked and tested every ignition related item that you can then I would try getting hold of a spare 'exciter' box. Chances of both of them failing is very rare indeed though.
Definitely being a diva. Testing a 748 today so that might frighten the old girl into playing ball!!!
But yeah, been through everything, will check everything over again, starting afresh, to see if I've missed anything obvious. Right pain though
electrical faults are one of the worse type to find checking round the bike you might in advertantly move the offending loose wire or connector and it all works without finding out what it was I blame the pixies make a list of all the switches and connectors that could be the culprit and check them one by one slow methodical and regular tea breaks I hate electrics
