1200 DVT Dialling Out Excessive Brake Dive

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by The dogs, Dec 30, 2015.

  1. As this is my first ducati and mutley to boot. How does one dial out the excessive dive under braking from the suspension.
     
  2. Is one a large chap ?
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
    • Nuke Post Nuke Post x 1
  3. Basic or Skyhook ? I have an original s with Ohlins and after market SCU and found maxing the preload less 1 or 2 clicks helped. I'm 17 stone and on the borderline of needing stiffer springs. Andy
     
  4. It's a basic 2015 dvt mutley Andy not that it makes much difference. Thought turning in the comp screws a couple of clicks would help but not sure. Read it on gpsuspensions website. Thought it might be an idea to get extra opinions hence post. Meant to add weight of me, 13st 10lbs and loosing it
     
    #4 The dogs, Dec 30, 2015
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2015
  5. I also run a 748R and on the standard suspension I found too much compression compromisd the ride but I do prefer it a little softer than most. How good is your local dealer workshop ? A little professional help is not a bad idea. Andy
     
  6. That's not an option, dealers on other island.
     
  7. Remember that it's not a sportsbike: stamp on the back brake first to get everything settled, then use the front. (Or some variation on that, depending on luggage and pillion situation.)

    If you adjust the suspension to take out all the dive, you'll also lose the ability to cope with whatever scrappy bit of tarmac is thrown at you.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  8. One buys the skyhook version, which takes care of it automatically.
     
  9. First, if I had known that skyhook would of done it for me I would of bought it with it. However, having had two bmws with a form of electronic suspension it didn't. Bear in mind that your bike doesn't have a crystal ball for the road surface ahead of you, there is no substitute for well set up suspension. If it was better then why doesn't the new Pikes Peak have at?

    In addition, my thought about adjusting the compression harder was to restrict the bike as it compresses under braking. If I adjust the rebound, then I take out the suspensions ability to absorb the bumps as they hit the tyres front edge, as it rebounds up. Correct me if I'm wrong.
     
    #9 The dogs, Dec 30, 2015
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2015
  10. ;)
     
    #10 Hyperextended, Dec 30, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 15, 2016
  11. Despite @OtherbikesaBrompton wishing to nuke this post it is a very relevant question, if the spring rate is wrong for your weight then whatever you do with preload, compression or rebound settings it will not be ideal.
     
  12. Apologies! My mistake.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. I fail to understand why such a relevant subject such as this, should attract such a comment. The subject of suspension set up and the ability to understand it, it is far more beneficial than any addition of any after market exhaust.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  14. Apology accepted.
     
  15. There's no need for extra rocket science here. If you have the 1200s that's why you paid the extra bucks for.
    Just go to your prefered riding mode settings and increase the preload and change the setting to harder or hardest. The harder did it for me, I was unhappy with the excessive dive. Bike's also much smoother in the corners, but as someone mentioned above you need to watch our how you come in and out of the corners after the adjustment.
     
  16. Preload adjustment is the main tool in reducing fork dive but it still needs to be set so the forks do not top out or bottom out. If you add more compression you may well make the forks overly harsh.
    One thing i found that helped with mine was adding a little rebound damping as the forks were recovering too quickly after diving under braking.

    After that you are really in need of a suspension expert as you would need to play with different forks springs, air gaps and oils.
     
  17. I agree, I forgot to mention that I've done also a spring preload adjustment, that's ca 15kg over my actual weight. Aside the fork diving that also eliminated a wombling effect there was when traveling at high speed.
    That it is a task that one could perform themselves but I would recommend to rather do it at a Ducati authorized service if possible.
     
  18. It depends on your definition of excessive dive, all bikes will dive under braking- even a track ready Panigale. I previously had a triumph explorer that when with pillion and luggage I found to get a little divey under hard braking but not excessively- I've now got a skyhook multi and when it's fully loaded does not dive at all. But without much weight on the sky hooks effect reduces a lot. Horses for courses I think.
     
  19. I think the apology was offered to me ;)

    I agree but the correct order of adjustment is spring rate, and which spring you use is dependent upon your weight (hence my initial tongue in cheek post), preload to ensure the suspension is operating over the correct range (note, preload does not stiffen the suspension) and then finally adjusting compression and rebound settings. There is a degree of subjectivity to all of these settings.
     
    #19 johnv, Dec 31, 2015
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2015
    • Agree Agree x 1
  20. if the sag is right (remember this is a long travel suspension bike, so will dive more naturally) then you can only play with compression to slow the rate at which it collapse the front end

    otherwise, change the springs and/or oil/air gap and oil weight, oil alone can have a massive affect on suspension dive

    I have a skyhook and my DVT dives far more than my MY14 skyhook I traded in, even with similar settings. Think some of this is a characteristic of Ducati making the whole bike more compliant and softer
     
Do Not Sell My Personal Information