Hi, I've just picked up a 1098s for track days (it's my 5th 1098, I love them, spend ages getting them exactly how I like them then for some reason sell them, probably because I'm an idiot) that's been sitting idle for a couple of years, and I can't seem to make it run for more than a few seconds. Well, that's a ridiculously vague start to an inevitably rubbish thread isn't it? Sorry. Hang on, I'll try a little harder. The bike has been fully built up by Pro Twins and is running a PC3 and super stock internals (all paid for by someone richer than me, obviously) and also has lots of other stuff that I don't understand. It's done 4K (all on track) and has a full Leo Vince system on it. When I first got it a couple of weeks ago, I cleaned it up then let it sit idling which it did for about 8 or 9 minutes, then it died. I could start it again but unless I held the throttle on it would die again. I ran the battery down trying over and over so put it on charge and left it alone. Since then. I can make it turn over and 'catch' when the battery is on full charge, but because of the higher compression this is somewhat of a hit and miss situation. When it does fire I can keep it running if I hold on the throttle, but even then the throttle spikes a bit up and down when I'm holding steady throttle on, then most often dies. I've checked the relays next to the battery box that relate to the inj error codes it threw originally and they're clean and dry and seem fine. I suspect as much as anything that was related to trying to crank it so many times, so they are probably unrelated. I've not had the inj/ batt errors when the battery is full enough, so I don't think it relates to that particular stupid '98 quirk. My best guess is that the fuel sitting in at has maybe gummed up the plugs or injectors (no idea how to clean the injectors, but can inspect and replace plugs) so I've been trying to run clean fuel through but as yet the longest I can keep it running for is about 45 seconds so I then have to start the restart roulette all over again and even with a jump plug and anderson connector it's still often only possible to get three or four good starts out of it before having to give up. It's not a road registered bike so unfortunately I can't take it for a blast to see if it does it whilst on the move. So, any ideas on where I should start? Pull the plugs? Something cleverer? Something else? Anything else? My last 1098s was a high compression one also (which I'm assuming means 'makes me more attractive to girls' as for the money it costs it should practically make me a vaginally lodestone) and that would take a little finesse to start cranking but then would be almost like a normal reliable motorbike after that. I'm well aware this is a tedious place to start on the forum. Please don't yell DO A SEARCH at me, as I have and I can't find anything that works so I thought I'd see if I'm missing anything obvious, as I usually am. Hello, by the way. I've been a member here for years but couldn't activate my old login so have had to rejoin. I promise once I get this sorted that I'll be interesting and significantly less desperate and whiny. Well, less desperate and whiny, anyway. So, please help. What's wrong and what should I do? Thanks in advance. N.
I'd defo start with a new set of plugs. Don't just clean the old ones or see if they spark. Spend £20 on new set. If you're stuck, pull them and if soaked in fuel, bung them in the oven till toasty then try again. New relays are also a good starting point. Any other error codes? Does they dash show a good charging voltage? When it does run? 14V+ ? Tried disconnecting the Power Commander?
Hi Nelson, Thanks for getting back to me so soon. I appreciate you taking the time. I'll order some new plugs and relays right now. If there are better versions of either please let me know. There are no other error codes, no. It'll fire from 13.1v but when I can hold it running (no idea why the revs are spiking from a static throttle position- have you?) it shows 14v on the dash. I'll try disconnecting the PC- what does that normally achieve? Forgive me asking please, I'm always keen to understand things. Thanks again. Apologies for the dullness.
If the bike runs when you hold the throttle open and the revs are spiking with a static throttle position, I'd be inclined to check the Throttle Position Sensor.
I dont know much about the PC, but bypassing it and letting it run on the stock ecu might be worth a go. Were the plugs wet and smelling off fuel? When you pull the plugs give them a test by pushing back into the stick coil and resting on the rocker cover. Push the starter and see if there's a spark. (Don't hold the coil , you may poo your pants!) Check all the connections to and from the voltage rec and the CPS. Start with the simples stuff...
Thank you, that's great. If I can find it I will. Where abouts is it? I'm guessing 'underneath everything, totally inaccessible, surrounded by razor sharp red hot spikes'? Given that I've no idea how to check it, how do I do that or should I just buy a new 1098 one and pop it in while I'm ordering plugs and relays? Thanks again for your time. I'm grateful.
Simple is good. Thank you. I haven't pulled the plugs yet. I'll do that now and then test them as you suggest. I may even poo my pants on purpose, just to liven things up a bit. I don't know where the voltage rec is or what the cps is. If you wouldn't mind pointing me towards them both I'll promise to be less of a dick shortly.
Ok. Thank you. Any ideas how I check it/ find it? I'm relatively competent and well equipped, despite appearances on this thread/ my haircut.
Although before you start guessing and spending money, a dealer should be able to plugh the bike into their diagnostic machine and tell you if the TPS is faulty.
The dealer near me is both not near me and not all that helpful. They're also famously expensive. And for some reason permanently cross with everyone. Is there a way of self diagnosing? I guess the PC doesn't show that kind of diagnostic data when hooked up?
Thanks Nelson. I'll do a search for what/ where to buy all that and get it bought just now if you think it's worth a try?
Ok. It'll look obviously crappy if it's not right, right? Buggered if I can find the shindengen thingy anywhere. I'll keep looking. So, quick recap. Buy new plugs. What kind are best? Buy new relays. Are some better than others? Check TPS. Where and how? Check CPS. What, where and how? Check earth strap. Replace Reg/ Rec. Sorry. I told you you'd regret this. Oh no, wait. I didn't. Ok. I'm telling you now tho.
Welcome by the way! Loving the upbeat style of your posts - great to see a positive humorous attitude despite all turning to shit around you! Hope you get it sorted.
Ok, have sourced some iridium plugs and a reg/ rec. Ordered now. I've also found a TPS for about 40 quid which I may as well order as if I fit it after trying the plugs and reg/ rec and it's not that I can always return it and it's only cost me postage and no patience. So, last question for tonight. If I plug the TPS into wherever the hell that lives, will it self calibrate? Sorry again for this little stream of Saturday tedium. If it helps you at all, try and imagine a little horse or something. I don't know. Maybe it's wearing a hat? Yes. That's it. Some sort of hat.
It also sounds like fuel starvation symptoms. I would take the pump out the tank and change the filter and check the pipes are not perished split or loose