I've just about had it with this bike. When everything is working, there is not another bike I'd sooner be on, but in 7500 miles it's had the following; Clutch Slave Font /rear wheel sensors SCU 2 fork seals (same side) Seat repair ( lasted a week, looks like it's covered with a long foreskin again) Side stand Fuel sendor (twice) Front mudguard has had half the paint rubbed off Now before I get shot down, I'm well aware of the niggles as I owned a 2011 s sport but when it comes to safety issues I get pissed off! My 2011 nearly stuck me through a hedge when the side stand switch went and I very nearly came a cropper today. I've just had a fork seal replaced and went out for a ride with some mates today. (I've also swapped from Scorpions to Pr4's) could'nt believe the difference, high speed constant weave and bars wobbling at nearly every lump and bump. To cut to the chase, I messed about with the settings but no joy so I thought I'd check the pre-load. I weigh 90kg so I thought I'd try 6 turns, to my surprise the dealer hadn't put anything on it from the seal change as it was fully backed off! Went back out having adjusted,and no surprise felt loads better especially when hard on the brakes but it's still got a high speed weave which it never had before. Anyway, there I was making good progress on a favourite stretch of twisties when it just died on me, only for half a second but whilst I had a handful coming out of a bend, this sent me wide and as the power snapped back in unsettled the bike and started the bars a flapping, very lucky not to launch myself up the bank and into the woods. Obviously slowed down in light of this but it then happened another 5/6 times, also noticed the ABS light kept flashing as did the traction control light, the speedo kept going to zero. So i'm guessing it's a another wheel sensor fault maybe but whatever it is it's bloody dangerous. I'm well aware of how dangerous motorcyles are but if I had launched my self into a tree today and bought it, I'm sure the cause of death would of gone down as rider error. Obviously I'll be in contact with my dealer but I'm seriously loosing confidence in this bike.
Tbh if mine were having some of the issues peolpe report, or even half that number, I'd get rid and try something else.
I'm seriously considering it, I can bite the bullet when it comes to niggles but I don't want it sticking me in hospital!
Bloody hell! Sounds like you've had and still are having a nightmare? I think - actually I deff would have pressed the button on it a while ago and let some other lucky punter crack on with it
The cut out on my '13 GT was pretty harsh when the DTC kicked in. Could the bike have been saving you from a low-side?
I had the same problem on my 2014 bike with the wife on the back, My sidestand switch had water in it so every time I accelerated it seemed to cut out then the power came back on then off then on apart from almost throwing the wife off the back it almost flipped the bike it was so violent. I took it into the dealers as he thought it may be a faulty throttle sensor but he couldn't find anything, it wasn't until a month later and a few close calls that it totally went and I could pinpoint the problem. I've never had a wheel sensor go up to now touch wood, but my bike going in for a fule sensor next week at 19000 miles.
Ditto on the side stand switch. Very violent and scary. Only ever had it on 2 bikes, my Ducati Multi and (surprise surprise guess what brand) my Ducati 848. I'm sick of Ducati now. Love the bikes when they work but seriously, there's only so long a manufacturer can rest on its laurels and rely on customer brand loyalty/blindness. It started with a paper clip in the connector to trick the sensor but have since purchased a connector and wired it in a closed loop. No problems since (on the side stand that is - rest of the bike still shit). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Found out what some of the problems were. It started to get a lot worse, pretty much all the lights coming on at different times, until finally the engine kept cutting out and powering off completely. Looking under the seat revealed that the bolt on positive battery terminal had gone awol! Renewing the bolt has made all the problems go away apart from one. The bikes suspension still feels different to me when riding hard, so many near tank slappers and constant weave on the bars at speed.( never used to be this bad) I think it's an issue on the front forks, I've tried playing about with the preload to set rider sag amongst other things, but it doesn't matter if you wind it all the way in or out, the measurement remains the same. That can't be right can it? I've adjusted it with ignition on within 30seconds and with engine running, but still no change in height of the forks.
Pinch bolts are tight, as had the wheels out to check the balance and then torqued them up. Not checked any of the others, but will do thanks
Are you running a top box? If yes try upping the preload at the rear. Every bike I have ever owned and run a top box on it gets slappy and weaves at high speed, think the drag from the box takes too much weight off the front, rear preload always cures it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not running a box. I've tried every setting I can think of with the suspension and doesn't make any difference. All I know is, the bike was alright but now it handles like shite. Bikes booked in next week for service, so they're going to have a look at it. Still can't get my head around the preload on the front. As I've said, wound fully in or out, the sag measurement doesn't change.
Too me it sounds like the rear is too soft on acceleration causing the front to go light and then flap the bars! Only my thoughts! Would really need to ride it too understand exactly what's going on.
I've tried stiffening the rear but no joy. Also tried different body positions, being light on the bars etc. when going at speed, I've had someone follow behind. It was just a constant weave/shimmer. Tried rolling off the the throttle (it then disappears) and as soon as you apply the power it starts again. My mate who was following was shocked by how much the rear was moving about.
Just having my suspension set up by the technicians at P&H, when we were measuring the sag he pointed out that you have to have the ignition on, then wait before bouncing the forks before you measure. Doubt this helps but may explain the sag not changing? He said mine was far too high at the front from standard. (On my old Ohlins model I actually dropped the front a little on the clamps to make it turn in and hold the line better.)
