Have you got a 12volt bulb type test light ? If not get one .... Led test lights or volt meters can confuse issues when fault finding , an led test light will light off hardly anything , same with a digital volt meter ...you can pick up back feeds or voltage feed back from other units , a proper bulb type test is better because it draws more current and is a better tool for showing a ' solid ' 12 v feed Can you flip the fuse box over , one side of the fuse box will be all red wires Fuse 2 4 5 6 7 should be permanent live Fuse 1 and 3 should go live with ignition on Do this test and get back .... one step at a time ....rule out .... move on
Yes... If you've got spare multimeter leads it handy to solder those on as it's easier using the probe tips than the way of tinning the wire ends to act as 'probes'
Yep. Got a meter....I'll solder up the light in a bit...Just taken the wheel out of the zed to get the puncture repaired for the second time..!
Ok - stepping back a couple of posts...if I leave one wire on the negative and then go to the fusebox and then pop the other wire on top of 1 and 3 yes the bulb goes on and off on both with the twist of the ignition key...
I would have expecte I would have thought it would stay on while the ignition is on..... Did you check the ignition barrel output was constant when on ? Possible damage to the contacts inside ? Try turning the ignition on then when the bulb goes off just try and turn the key back a bit without actually turning it off ?? Clutching at straws I know but some of my best fook ups have been sorted that way
Yeah it does....if I click the key on (ie ready to start) then the bulb stays on. Click the key off (bike off) then the bulb goes out....theres no fried wires that I can see...
Sorry.....Thought you meant it went on / off when keyed on.... I'd try the feed to the clocks if they aren't lighting up next....
s'ok - I totally understand....im ok with wiring to a certain point but when you get to problems like this im lost so putting into words what im seeing is difficult enough let alone all of you trying to help (which is amazing that your all trying to!!)....if I was on the receiving end of all of this id be totally lost...
Ha ha no worries..... Be interesting to see if the clocks are getting a constant 12v while ignition is on Do we know if knackered/removed clocks will stop it firing ????? On most modern bikes it does
Just uncovering the main loom (might be easier to follow cabling) - plus I can see if anything is damaged...
Not terribly relevant but I had a dodgy fuse connection with my 999 and it stopped the dash working but everything else was absolutely fine...
Not terribly relevant but I had a dodgy fuse connection with my 999 and it stopped the dash working but everything else was absolutely fine...
I just read on another forum that a user removed his Monster 796 clocks and the bike wouldn't fire till they were replaced..... Also thinking about it.....The dash must be something to do with the immobiliser coding as when you swap ECU to a DP unit it has no effect
Yes - but the clocks are plugged in - chris at Louigi said last night as the immobilizer is flashing it means the ecu is ok...
