I've now fixed my starting issue with my sp3(temp sensor) but although it starts its still not a fast starter, I have a feeling the sprag clutch is it on way out, anybody fitted one, is it a easy enough procces? any help or advice welcomed.
A slow turn over isn't a sign of sprag problems, I would suggest a set of heavy duty starter cables would make a big difference to the turn over speed, the standard one's fitted are under size. Steve
its not got a slow turn, its not catching every time, or maybe even slipping, when I look at the dry clutch its not spinning when turning over, just moving a few inches, the bike will fire but problematic..
That is a sign of sprag failure, I haven't replaced one myself but those that have say it's not a big job for the home mechanic. Steve
yeah watched a guide, looks do-able, I hear storys of the spring failing in the sprag itself, and some people just changing that.
Did a sprag clutch change on my 916SPS...worst thing was removing the flywheel nut as you need to hold the flywheel and undo the nut. I managed with an impact driver and lots of swearing while trying to prevent it turning. It cost around 300 quid around 8 years ago in parts alone as you need to buy the sprag bearing and the bit that it bears on which is part of the flywheel...my memory is sketchy on the detail but it was pretty pricey! Has been fine since though.
If the flange on the flywheel gear assembly that the sprag bears on is worn then it will still slip. That's what costs.
took a punt on this, worth a flutter, hes sold loads New -- Starter Clutch Gear Ducati Monster 748 749 996 998 916SPS 916 SPS | eBay
If the sprag bearing is the same as an SS one, then instead of forking out £100+ for the OEM one, a KTM one is the identical part, by the same manufacturer and costs about half the OEM one. If the spring in the sprag bearing has got buggered up (which is why it will not engage) an oil seal spring will fit, but I can't tell you which one...........However, I bit the bullet and just bought a new bearing (KTM) - wasn't going to risk doing it all only for it to fail. I'ts not too hard a job to do, but you need to think as you are doing it.
I did it a few years back... It's actually quite straight forward if you are methodical. There are a few posts about it on various forums (and most likely this one). I found that the sprag clutch teeth and corresponding boss (you'll get what I mean when you start pulling it apart) were in good shape so I just replaced the spring, which was all stretched and curly. I used the spring from an SKF seal... Again a bit of forum searching will uncover the exact one, although think this link mentions it: Sprag clutch spring The SKF spring is stronger than the original (and much cheaper) and as long as everything else looks in good shape then it'll solve the problem. As I said I did mine years ago and haven't had any problems. One piece of advice I will give you however is, make sure you clean all the bolt threads AND clean out the tapped holes in the engine casing with a tap before putting it back together, because the metal is soft and you can strip the threads easily.
