Yes Pete, Paddy has been very useful for a few things but I'm hoping to find a fuse box that will take modern blade fuses but still fit in place of the original. The ceramic fuses tended to be troublesome with a tendency to poor connections and fuses rattling loose.
I looked at that one but prefer the side entry spades. I've ordered this one off eBay. It was only a fiver. If it's no good I'll use it for something else.
This the link Pete UNIVERSAL CAR 4 WAY CIRCUIT ATO STANDARD BLADE FUSE BUILD IN BOX HOLDER 12V/24V | eBay
A question that I hope @Pete1950 can answer for me. I've been fitting the wiring and find I'm a bit puzzled by the routing for the rear indicator wires. The loom runs in the clips under the rear mudguard and naturally emerges through the grommeted hole below the rear light. The indicator wires are in the same loom and emerge at the same point along with the tail light wires but are a bit longer. It appears that the wires should come out between the tail light and the mudguard up to the rear indicator cross piece but this just doesn't seem right to me. I'd have thought they would be routed to come out from under the seat to the cross piece, which would be far tidier.
Incidentally, some indicators have a positive feed wire only, relying on frame earth. This is a recipe for problems and I would advise running an earth wire to each side, even though threading it down the cross piece tubes is not easy.
Things are coming on slowly. The tank, seat and fairing are off to be painted. I get it done by a local car body shop where I've had paintwork done before. They do the bike stuff in between the car stuff but they do a great job at a very reasonable price. I have a few bits off for re-chroming (expensive!) and expect them back in a week or two. The mudguards and clocks are on and the wiring is all in place. But when installing the wiring I came across this Oddly, the other end at the pickups had looked good, or so I thought. When I stripped the outer insulation off at the pick up end I found this The insulation on the wires was just crumbling apart. Just as well I decided to replace them. I've got a new Molex connector to fit and I'm waiting on bit of 2 x twisted pair cable to replace the wire from the pick ups. Can anyone confirm the wiring from the pickups to the Molex connector? This is how I reckon it should be
I'll reload them so hopefully you can see them Pete. Google have recently changed the sharing options in Google Photos and it's caught me out a few times recently
You should be able to see the pics now @Pete1950. It's confirmation of the pin out to the connector that I really need. The wires were in such a poor state it was difficult to be sure I was measuring the correct ones.
Thanks, I can see the pics now and all is clear. You are right in saying that the wires from the Bosch pickups are absolutely hopeless. The insulation cracks badly and the wires invariably need to be replaced unless you have new or reconditioned pickups. I think your diagram of the connection pattern to the Molex 4x block is wrong. With the diagram as you have drawn it, it should have the Verticales at the top and the Orrizontales at the bottom.
Molex 4 way 2 row motorcycle wiring loom connector 5.03mm pitch I presume this is the connector you are using?
