Had bike a couple of months now, all run in and had first service at 900 miles( whoops a little over the 620) Since getting back from service bike has developed what feels like a miss fire, now at about 1200 miles, only get this at lower rpm 4k when riding in built up areas ( 30mph and 40mph limits) At around 4000 rpm when running through built up areas, bike go's very flat and exhaust note loses its loud crackle and sounds very quite like its lost a cylinder or someones holding a rag over the outlet to muffle the sound, open her up and just feels really flat for a few seconds then bursts back into life and exhaust note returns to normal and bike takes off like a scalded cat, on open roads ridden like you've nicked it it feels and sounds fine. Pulling away at juntions etc bike splutters and nearly stalls and busy roundabouts are a nightmare as power delivery is very erratic, not the case in first 900 miles and demo bike did not behave this way. First 900 miles bike ran a dream, compared to my 996 it was very smooth and easy to ride now its horrible, tried petrol from different garages but make no difference. Explained to dealer what issues I am having and they seem to think its normal, but have said to take in for a look tomorrow. Anybody else had this? its a bog standard 1299 S standard exhaust etc, This has developed since the running in service, do dealers load a different map on ecu for bikes after 1st service?
Have you changed the clutch lever? I have similar low down issues and dealer puts it down to clutch lever. I've explained that it was misbehaving on stock levers but never provokes a response. I'm convinced that there IS a low down fuelling issue.
Yes mine is misbehaving and on stock clutch levers, was running fine until first service, now its a total pig. hopefully get something sorted or fobbed off with some old bull tomorrow.
I've read of something similar happening when the bike is becoming hot if you still have a charcoal canister on. It essentially wants to vapor lock and rob the bike of its fueling. Id removed mine at about 800 miles. I never have hard start issues or the spluttering that could happen at redlights and cause it to shut off or stall. Look into the procedure to remove the carbon canister and if nothing else, it will need to be done any way.
I've got Akra's fitted to mine. Prior to having these fitted used to stall frequently.....up map helped to mostly cure this and has made bike feel sharper. Have 3000 miles on now so I guess this helps. Still have fuelling issue though.....nose dive on quick pull always when reaching 20-30 mph....hot or cold, stock clutch lever or evotec, reduced traction control to stop any wheel spin. Even tried a range of fuel...supplier and Ron. Dealer says it's fine.....? As I have said I reckon that there is an error in the low end fueling map. Question is do I pay £350 to have it sorted or wait for the big D to recognise that there is an issue.
I think the dealers take us for idiots, they seem to adopt a care free attitude with our investments if it will save them time and money. I had a problem with a new Peugeot a few years back, the dealer had this care free approach and would or could not fix it, they have now gone tits up.
Hiya a lot of us have had similar problems low down in the revs.Like Tony ive got Akras.i put adjustable levers on it over winter before I had ridden it and this year when using it found it was a pig low down surging and stalling.firstly when I only did 10 miles on it got it picked up and taken to my local dealer under warranty through ducati free of charge. they had it for 3 days and remapped it but told me its how it should be just needs miles on it. well 600 miles later of trying to get used to a pig of a bike in the low revs range took it for its first service at the same dealer.they did the service and told me it was the aftermarket clutch lever at fault. they fitted a new lever ( I gave them my original as a swap later in week). since then it has worked much much better , but not sure if I was fogged off and they did do something with the mapping to make the bike better low down. just over 1000 miles now ive put another aftermarket lever on the bike now and it seems ok. strange I think there is a problem with the mapping but ducati wont own upto it for a mass recall. that's my conspiracy theory anyway.
I should consider myself lucky as I bought a demo, I am very hard on the bike. I have never had any issues with feeling of sluggish or kangarooing effect. I still really think it may be the Carbon canister.
I've not got a 1299 but have an 1199 and had the exact same problem, the engine would almost go silent and feel flat and then suddenly wallop back in again!! Dealer said it was running normally (this would happen hot or cold)... I've had carbon termis fitted and a custom map done and it's never happened since, I'm convinced the low down fuelling on them is just sh*te... getting a custom map was the best thing apart from the suspension setup that I've done.... cost £300 but low down is fine now and the mentalness is brought down the rev range a bit and beefed it up!! .... if you can afford it get some cans and a custom map! :thumbsup:
I will see what comes of tomorrows visit, if still a pig will look into carbon canister. I am running a standard clutch lever, out of interest how does the clutch lever cause a running issue when changed?
Is the carbon canister not something on US bikes only? Its not on UK bikes as far as I know. What gear are you in at 30/40mph when its doing it. First or second? Mines never got on like this and I commute on it every day. Smooth as butter. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
Martin There is a pin under the lever that operates a micro switch. This switch apparently tells ecu clutch position and I'm told poss 43 possible combination/settings/etc to ecu for fuelling........?.? Though looking at the ms operation it's either on or off, i.e. sending an open or closed signal? It doesn't appear to send a proportional signal for actual clutch lever position. Comparing levers side by side and pin position they appear to be identical. On the bike the gap appears to be the same between OEM Brembo and Evotec levers. So, to finally answer your question....I'm told that the pin in replacement levers does not engage correctly on the micro switch so cocks up messaging to the ecu thus low speed fuelling on pull away causes stalling, diving and kangerooing. I'm not convinced.
Oh my, how dumb of me. I forgot about being on the UK forum. The Carbon canister is a dumb ass US issue. Thanks to the jack offs in California. Ignore anything I said, lol.
It won't cure the engine flat spot bit you're referring too but if you do much very slow filtering whilst commuting I found backing the EBC right down helps loads with smoothness as it won't kick in as much every time you roll off
I second the earlier information regarding the micro switch. It's just that - a switch, so it's either on or off. With an after market lever, the pin that trips the switch needs to trip it at the same degree of lever pull as the OEM. Note that the other pin that compresses the master cylinder is adjustable for length on some after market levers (including mine), so you need to ensure that the switch operates at the same amount of master cyclinder activation. This point is sometimes missed when after market levers are installed. I am not sure of what if any effect the switch has on throttle response. It influences the quick shifter and whether or not you can start the bike in gear. Does the clutch need bleeding? Mine needs regular bleeds to keep it working well. Other things to check: Did the dealer change the map at first service? - Probably, if a newer map was available. Is the engine power mapping (low/med/high) on the setting that you think it is for each mode (race/sport/wet)? I found that the throttle was a bit erratic in Sport mode with the med engine setting. Does the exhaust valve move freely? My bike is also on the std exhaust with Rizoma levers and I have none of the problems you describe. It fuels really well for a big twin at low speeds. It doesn't hunt at 30mph in 3rd gear (not that I am recommending that you ride it at that speed in 3rd). Mine has done just over 3k miles now.
I run in second gear in 30 mph limits as it was the smoothist gear at 30 before this issue, in sport mode medium engine setting. I will check the clutch give it a bleed through to see if it helps, not sure about exhaust valve, is this something I can check myself? I think dealer has changed the map, this started after first service which was done late at about 900 miles, dont seem to be able to get an answer yes or no from dealers, just feel something has changed at service as everything fine before.
Razz, Good point re the master cylinder pin. I've used the original pin to ensure correct length. Have bled the clutch previously with some marginal improvement...perhaps this will be a future maintenance at every 1k miles. Re engine settings, yep all assigned correctly. Have tried various permutations. Even tried wet mode...same problem. Akras fitted so no butterfly exhaust valve. Perhaps some experimenting with pin length & micro switch lever?
Check the exhaust flapper valve is opening closing , I had issues with that one but fine now since its been lock wired open permanently , bike runs great fuckin ballistic machine
