Just to clarify for anyone planning this, the part numbers for the belly exhaust and link pipe are as follows: Link pipe part number: 57011462B under belly exhaust part number: 57413894AA These numbers are for the US specification 959 and 1299, and I expect are exactly the same part numbers on the UK 1299 (someone can probably check that last point for me). So if you are looking to buy and are not sure, I can confirm the above parts will fit straight onto your existing (Euro 4 959) headers. Aside from the lower fairing panels, the link pipe and belly section are the only two parts you need to convert the Euro4 959 as I have. You do not need to change the headers. You only need to change the headers if you are putting an 899/1199 exhaust on, and that is because the exhaust is 5mm smaller diameter on those, so the link pipe obviously would not fit the headers (and the link pipe to belly section connection is completely different).
Link pipe number is the same, but that exhaust number is different for some reason. Possibly just yours is the 959 number and I have put the 1299 number. Either way, they fit the same link pipe and attach to the bike exactly the same.... So now there are two options! (Confession: I looked up the link pipe number for 1299 and compared it to the 959 one I had, and when it came up the same I assumed the muffler section would have the same number)
Does anyone know if leaving th exhaust valve servo connected to the wiring but removing the cables works? Some US forums say they can remove the servo completeley without error codes (obviously we can't!) and some just remove the cables without removing the servo to fool the bike to thinking it is still there without problem Or is a stopper definitely required to stop the servo over rotating if keeping the servo connected to ecu?
If you just disconnect the cable you get an error the second time you start it. You would only get round it if you rigged something to pull the cable back. The easiest way to do this is leave everything as it is, but just remove the flap from the shaft inside the pipe. Alternatively, quite a few places sell a plug in unit to replace the servo to confuse the ecu into thinking it is all still there and working.
I'm just thinking if I come to change to a US or 1299 exhaust and not have to get the dealer to remove the CEL Seems foreign bikes store an error code but no CEL. Trust ours to be different. Seen a couple of plug in eliminator a on eBay - not sure if they work though
The eliminator only has one job to do.... If it doesn't do it, send it back. You could put it on yours now to try, even before swapping. Beyond that, you either need to remove the flap, or find another way to tension the flapper end of the cable.
Would prefer to remove the whole thing and have done with it, if I do change the exhaust of course Also considering removing the charcoal canister
Your best bet is going to be an eliminator or speak to an dealer/ECU tuner about getting the fault removed.
The dealer did say they could do it. Not sure what they would charge HPS sell healtech ones for about £40 which (if it worked) would be easily reversible when finished with the bike
the dealer would charge at least that, and as you say, with the eliminator you could always switch it back for the servo and flapper to sell it if you wanted.
They have a charcoal canister which the vented and or overfilled fuel from the tank goes into and then is sent back to the throttle bodies
Just need to decide on whether to swap the exhaust or not Been offered akra slip on with fairings and up map for £2400, could wait for more side mounted options to come out or go the route you did with 1299 or US exhaust
Personal choice, but with all the noise testing nonsense I wanted something "OE", so the US 959 exhaust was my only sensible option, plus the complete conversion for £700-odd was a no brainer. £2400 is still a lot (there is a full akra system with a missing bracket on eBay at the minute for £2400!). You could buy an ohlins shock and fork cartridge kit for that instead!!.....
Yeah I can't see a slip on massively improving performance over that standard cans too, even with the up map. It's the easiest option though but expensive
My swap took maybe 4 hours and is about as straight forward as a job can get... But most of that was getting the link pipes out and in... Swing arm is a pig!
I mean easiest as in getting parts and no remap or error codes etc If a US or 1299 one comes up I would certainly consider it. Keeping my eye out for one anyway
Exhausts will start popping up more often, and there is nothing to stop you connecting the flapper valve in its new location so there is no error....
Would the cables etc not be different? Saying that they would prob come with the second hand system anyway
