Noticed oil running out from behind my belt covers (900SS carby, 1995), just changed the top pulley seal - real easy as it had a spacer tube in it allowing you to pull the seal out from behind. This one will be more challenging.... no obvious way of pooting it out from behind, can't pull the pulley shaft out from the other side of the cases either?? Fek. There is the time-honoured way of drilling a small hole, screwing in a self-tapper and pulling it out that way, I am shy to do this for sprinkling any clag into the engine? :frown: Anybody?
Thats the only I can see you doing it. With lots of patients. Then use a long oversized socket to tap the new one in to place without damaging it :smile:
Indeed! Further research shows a bearing behind it so any fluff shouldnt fall straight into the cases? Will have to see if I can hook it out - have to get a new seal first? Am I right in thinking it is p/n: 93785.1830?
Not sure bud. But if you give north Leicester a call 01530 261192 and speak to Olley or Alex they will prob have one in stock and send it out. Alex is a bloody genius when it comes to Italian bikes and will prob tell you the quick way to get the seal out.
LOL! Oh well... thanks for helping anyhoo! Just fitted new carb manifold rubbers, looking forward to going out on another sunny day & its decided to blow another seal... :frown:
Update: Sorted this a week or two back, ordered seals in from Riders in Brissol, who told me they would take a while to come through as Italy was in the middle of its fortnight Summer Shutdown :frown: After sulking for a few days I ordered another belt pulley seal, head pulley seal and new camshaft pulley nut from the excellent Stein Dinse in Germany! Four hours after ordering these parts I had a call from Riders saying my parts had arrived. My parts from Stein Dinse are now here and naturally, surplus to requirements! Are as follows: Cambelt drive pulley seal pn: 93041231A (replaces 937851830) Cylinder head belt pulley seal pn: 400520134 Pulley nut pn: 729441542 Parts will fit a 1995 Vintage carby, and I presume other 2v motors of this vintage too? The cambelt drive pulley seal should fit most 2v & 4v SBK motors, would be the same crankcases? :smile: I paid 16.35euros for all three + P&P from Germany, if somebody waves £16.99 Paypal at me I will post said seals to them for future use...
Two months on... The new fitted seal worked fine - until the bike got Proper Hot and/or got ranted about. Spoke to Steve B. Crankcase pressure was pointed as being a possible cause? I had removed the linkpipe from the condense bottles to the airbox, perhaps if this was re-added the breather would open better/sooner and solve the issue? Refit pipe. STILL leaking... I assumed an old-stock seal, and got another one from Baines. Fitted that last week - STILL fkn leaking when hot! Not as much, but OMFG... Seal/s were fitted with the utmost care, tape over the threaded shaft end & circlip groove etc, my only thought is that the shaft is worn? It looked ok from the top, I didnt rotate it round because A) I didnt see any need to, and B) The bike didnt have any belts on. :wink: Ideas?
If its possible to source a double lip seal then at least one lip would not be on the worn part of the shaft although might be sealing the 'wrong' direction.
Will get a pic of the new seal I took out tomorrow - Cambelt drive pulley seal pn: 93041231A (replaces 937851830) - is an "Upgrade" seal already, pretty sure it has two seals as standard? Like your thinking though!
Thinking about sealing the "wrong direction"... the new seal/s are fitted the same as the old one, with the solid side facing outwards? Have now got doubt in my mind as to whether the new seals, a different part number need to be fitted backwards for the sealing lips to be the right direction? Will check later today :smile:
Pic from the first seal going on - the seal I took off was originally blue, the same as the cylinder-head pulley seals, which indicates to me it was the original? The obvious groove in the shaft is for the circlip which stops the inner pulley sliding up the shaft :wink:
Further checks reveal the new seal is the same fitment as the new one, solid face outwards? Further thoughts -knackered shaft bearing meaning the shaft will oscillate & cause leakage? I gave my shaft a wiggle earlier and couldnt detect any obvoius slack, though this would be hard to detect with both belts still in place? Thought yesterday... have I got too much oil in the cases? I try to keep it between the Upper and Lower levels on the level plate (bike level & upright:wink, I remember reading blah before to keep the level more towards the "Lower" level on the plate - which was the "Upper" level on early SS? Where does everyone else top up to??
Mine is knackered and both belts on is the best way to see the play - the the movement in the belts amplifies the movement at the pulley. Burns it so quickly that it is never too full (A couple jobs needing done on the SL once the SS project is running :frown
Doesn't seem to be in much further than the original black seal, which was recessed a little? (Pic at top of thread) Shouldn't make much difference as the shaft has (in theory...) no width differences at this point? Valid comment tho...
Early black-case 900SS case with the lower mark as the Upper?? "The max-level was originaly the top line. But they noticed the oil got blown out fairly quick and thus the oil level dropped. Ducati fixed this issue by lowering the max-level to the lower mark. However, did caused problems with owners running with to little oil as they did not check their oil level enough. Afterwards, the max-level was again put at the top mark. It's just the Italian way" It does seem to me to be a little retarded to have the upper oil level right at the bottom of the sight glass?? :biggrin: Word seems to be keep the level low to avoid leaks/burning/burping etc... does sound very mechanical with "low" oil, even above the clutch?? Oh well, lol I keep a 500ml coke bottle with oil in it under the seat for those long-trip top-ups... :wink:
The seal references you have provided are correct.....The flat side of the seal should be 'outwards'. I assume there is a spring on the inside of the new seal central lip??? Looking at your pics, the shaft surface where the lip sits appears to be OK........and if the seal is in the right way round, the crankcase pressure should tighten that lip if anything. I would be inclined to look at the seal to housing joint rather than leaking past the seal on the shaft.....you may be protecting the lip OK, but is the outer diameter of the seal tearing up as you whack it in, or is the seal case getting bent as you do it? Use the largest diameter tube to knock it in....if you use one that is small, it will distort the case of the seal and force the lip inwards, stretching the lip itself. Try a new one and coat the housing / seal seat with Loctite Bearing Fit when you fit the seal...(it should help it slide in) and let it go off for a day before you run the engine, but turn it over by hand every couple of hours just in case you squeeze a bit onto the bearing itself. My oil level is always above FULL and so far sustained 6000 rpm hasn't caused a problem.... AL
Cheers Al! Yes to there being a spring on the inside of the new seal(s) Im thinking the Loctite Bearing Fit would be a different jollop to say red threadlock? Considered Threebond at one point but not keen to do so as was so close to the bearing? Need a longish deep socket to fit due to the length of the pulley shaft, will purchase another seal & Bearing Fit and give that a go... not getting much riding done at the mo anyways - cold, wet etc... :frown:
