Hi All, I've just had my Ohlins fork bottoms replaced due to one being cracked. The guy who serviced them for me - MCT - said its a common problem partly due to the spindle being so thin. It apparently allows it to crush into an oval shape when the pinch bolts are tightened too (this cracks the fork leg) much and also then is difficult to remove. Has anyone else experienced this? and is there any great remedies for it? I'm trying not to buy a new spindle as they are £100!! Many thanks Ed. PS: I'll try and post some pictures below!
I had a warning from the suspension bloke the other day while he was sorting my bike out. He said that if you torqued them to what the manual says, (in my case, 19N), there is a risk they'll crack where yours has. He reckons about 14 to 15 tops. Not much good for you now but just thought I'd mention it. Ian
The manuals usually state that these pinchbolts should be tightened in a 1-2-1 sequence. I would go further and recommend something more like a 1-2-1-2-1-2-1 sequence. This ensures that the clamping forces are evenly spread across the area and guards against overtightening on one side only. I do mine in multiple stages by hand, using just a short allen key (minimal leverage) for maximum "feel" and only get the torque wrench out for the very last tightening. I'm not sure that I'm convinced by the theory that the spindle squashes.... can't really see it being weak enough for that tbh.
Sadly the story is I bought the bike then had my local garage look over it and they noticed it straight away, which is good as the consequences could have been horrendous! I'm pretty sure the guy who sold it to me didn't know about the fault, who would sell a bike knowingly in this condition and also knowing I@m going to ride from London to Ipswich on it!? It's apparently a common problem on this model of Ohlins, some Aprilla's also suffer I've heard. It can also happen by just being unlucky as opposed to over tightening the pinch bolts but saying that I have just been out and purchased a new torque wrench to try and ensure it doesn't happen to me... hopefully! One thing I don't have however is the tool for holding the spindle in place to tighten the nut! Will post a couple more pictures of the forks etc.
I always tighten to the maximum torquage as stated in the workshop manual. I'll now knock a nm off that in future.
I never have bothered with small bolts lie that. There is a large but holding the wheel on. In fact I rarely bother with torquing anything.
Could a man with no lathe use a vice with blocks of wood to not screw the threads? Or a nut in the thread part?
