Thinking of doing the quiet clutch mod and wondered if anyone else had done it to their 1100 as I've read a few different ways of doing it :/
No but post up some pics of it if you do - I'm thinking of doing it not to quieten down the clutch but more because its just about to get even louder....velocity stacks have just cleared customs...
My theory is if its going to get louder then I could be a "nice person" by possibly quietening down another bit of it....
I don't mind a bit of noise hence I left my OEM cover on but it got really hot and grab by with the dust.... Fitted an open cover which has made it loads better but it's just a bit too loud now....
I love the noise - love everything that comes with the aircooled motor....strange as when I got my first hyper (1100s) I sold it and one of the reasons was the noise....its really grown on me over the years to the point (re 939 review from the other lad) that stops me jumping to a watercooled motor...but I did have a week on my last hyper (1100evo) with velocity stacks and it sounded even better but I was thinking "i love this, sounds better than before but I think the neighbours might not appreciate it as much as I do!" Ill fit the stacks and see what it sounds like...but id still like to see what goes into the mod in picture form....that'd be peachy - cheers...I think its just popping an extra plate in at the back or something like that...
Yeah that's the gist of what I read about the clutch....But then I read one about an older model that mentioned just rearranging the plate order ? I'll see if I can scrounge an old clutch plate or two from someone...
Yes I have done mine , I suppose it's a little cheat really as the real issue is that the tabs of the friction plates are worn and the fingers of the clutch basket get grooved . I just put a friction plate in first then a metal then alternating to the end of the basket , in fact you end up with one metal plate left over as the different order changes stack height . It also moves the friction plates relative to the worn areas on the basket so you get less play ..... yes eventually it will need a new basket and plates but hey hoe . It's much quieter idling but still gets the chatter when clutch pulled in .
Cool..... Ha ha I love that video Got a new pressure plate and a couple of friction plates winging there way to me, so I'll be there soon
You'll never hear the clutch over the intake roar - a terrific sound! Less antisocial and more personal than a noisy exhaust too... Decision made, gonna take off my long range tank and put the K&Ns/Ducshop stacks back on. And maybe finally fit that alloy subframe. Oh yes!
I thought to have the long range tank you had to loose the stock air box and have the air filters on...?
You lose the stock airbox and fit 'small' K&Ns that come as part of the tank package which are smaller than those that come with the stacks but still a tight squeeze. Smaller than the big K&Ns that come with the stacks but they still breathe better than the stock airbox. The LRT is a great mod (doubles the size of the tank) but I'm lucky enough to now have a Multi and the plan was to sell the Hyper. But ... I was having trouble bringing myself to actually do it. So, new plan - keep it, strip it back and make it as light as possible, woohoo! And it's all your fault...
Id like to think I was responsible in some shape way or form ....before I bought the Duc Shop kit from the lad in the U.S. I did go looking for generic filters but couldn't find anything...my kit comes with the stacks but are they really necessary? - it would have been nice if I could have found some generic filters and just bolted them on...
If you put extra plates in, you will almost certainly increase the stack height and that will make the clutch a little heavier by increasing the preload on the springs. I recommend you try simply re ordering the existing plates by putting a friction plate in first, then just alternate friction and plain, making sure you end with a plain at the top. Then you end up with a lower stack height, rather than higher, so you then get a lighter clutch lever to go with your reduced wear and reduced noise. Win/win/win With the quiet clutch mod, the stack no longer oscillates in the drum slots but remains pressed against the driving edge of the slots. This means that overall clearances within the slots no longer really matter and wear is so reduced that you will only need to replace friction plates when the friction material wears so badly the clutch starts to slip. For Derek on here, that was after something like 36000 miles! You will probably never need to replace the drum...
I read to replace the first steel plate with a friction (As the stack starts with 2 steels) then the stack height should be roughly the same...
That would work. Depends how light you like your clutch. I have eliminated all the doubling up of steels and have a two finger light clutch as a result and with no slipping, dragging or grabbing. It's very simple to experiment but what you want to avoid is to end up with a higher stack height than you had previously.
Nice if someone can throw up some pics....this is the sort of job where at the end of the day id end up with no clutch...
Try googling Ducatidisk. There's a guy in France who makes special plates to place at the bottom of the stack and he's made a video. That should help.
Ill go take a look - however ive just had a chat with Rich at Louigi and just asked while the hyper is in on the dyno - can he switch the clutch over - so I'm going in on the 3rd with slipper clutch - rich will swap it over and I'm getting a lesson on maintenance and also doing the mod as well....not got an answer back from Chris yet but ill go in on the 3rd regardless....
I've got my pressure plate and friction plates now.... I was waiting till the weekend to do them so I could post some pics.... I'm on afternoons this week and starting early so ive just got time to do the job but not enough time to document it, hence waiting.......