1200 DVT Engine Stalled While Clutch In (occasionally)

None of that has to do with the issue. I had this same problem till recently. Putting it in simple terms the immobilizer and key are not hooked up 100%. The guy at my dealer just randomly caught it as the reason when we were over looking DDS for another issue when I was describing it to him.

You need to get them to re add the key to the immobilizer in the bike. For me the was missing from one part where it should have been listed so they just removed the key fully and added it back. The thought is the bike thinks it doesn't have the right key for a moment and turns it self off.

Since the key was re added to the bike this issue has not happen to me and I'm going on about 3 1/2 weeks. The issue would happen about once a week for me.

 

Doesn't mean it would be cut off at any moment there has to be some software to stop that. When you pull that clutch in the bike knows its safe to cut off so there is a reason why its doing right then. So far removing and then re adding the key has worked for me with this issue. It would happen exactly the same for me as it did for you in your video.

It will probably happen now that I said hasn't happened to me since the "fix" but I will let you know if it does.

 

I definitely would not expect reprogramming the key to have any affect on stalling. I've had this happen a couple times when the engine is not up to operating temperature. From my research it seems to be related to the DBW throttle body. A few have had their dealer reset the throttle position sensor and it seemed to at least reduce the problem.

 

This happened to me yesterday while riding fairly aggressively, banging down from third to second, on the brakes and blipping throttle to rev match, it just died at approx 60 mph approaching a roundabout, only done it once but be interested to hear if someone finally nails a solution.

 

same Problem on MTS MY2010 Years ago,
Check Clutchlever-Pin/switch, especially with no OEM Lever.
Check Bypass-Screws.
from Manual MY 2010:
Specific operating strategies
Idle speed
No electric motor is used for idle speed regulation (bypass is modulated instead with the throttle valve), as idle speed control is effected by the ride-by-wire system. Idle speed is maintained by the control unit when the speed drops below a specific threshold and when the clutch lever is operated and/or the gearbox is in neutral. The “clutch lever operated” signal is generated by a button on the lever itself, which interacts directly with the engine control unit. The “gearbox in neutral” signal is generated by the gear sensor connected to the BBS, and is transmitted to the engine control unit via the CAN line (target idle speed with engine stabilised at operating temperature is 1,350 rpm) The CO value for each cylinder, always with engine stabilised at operating temperature, must be within 0.4 and 1.4 in volume percentage.

hope that helps

 

could it be a clutch lever issue like the fella on the hyper?replaced the lever?

 

can't remember. Bit he put a new clutch lever on, it wasn't seated properly, so the bike kept hunting and surging. Not quite the same but may be worth a look 'if' you have changed the lever.

 

I don't know if this has any relevance but my daughter's Ford Fiesta engine kept stopping randomly in the middle of gearchanges etc but would start again immediately.
I tried resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery but it didn't work.
What did work was to remove the ecu fuse for 5 minutes, then start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without touching the accelerator.
Hasn't done it since

 

I

It has to be worth checking if you have an ecu fuse. If so, pull it out for 5 minutes, then start the motor and let it idle for 15 mins without touching the throttle.
On many ECUs this allegedly allows the ecu to 'learn' what settings it needs to maintain a steady idle.
Super simple to do and nothing to lose...

 

its as if there is an air leak or something?! or booked jet?!