Sounds a bit more dramatic from the header but its a bit of a niggle so I thought id ask.... It doesn't do it all the time (quite rarely in fact but it gets on my nerves that it does....) So, thought id start the fault finding... Stuff ive checked... 1. While the engine is running voltage shows around 14-14.5v so the rectifier is good. 2. After being on the optimate all night it was showing 13.5v 3. Went for a run (10 miles or so) - and yes it conked....always does it at around the tickover. Got backed and checked the voltage 13.2v (understandably the voltages will vary a bit) 4. Ignition off at 12.5v - voltage started to climb up to 12.9v 5. Recently cleaned the side stand switch (ive heard this can cause it) not sure how but ive cleaned it all the same. One thing to note is when it does stall I hit the starter and its like the battery is flat, almost...holding the starter down its like the battery has lost almost all of its power, the starter motor gains speed gradually and it starts - then I get home and the battery is showing as healthy?...weird. Ive got some of exiges heavy starter cables (they are done up tight and checked. I'm presuming from the above the battery is being charged (and good). Ive got a few other bits and pieces hanging off the battery. Heated grips Healtech QS Trailing cable for the optimate Stuff I was going to see if it fixed it.... Spark plugs. (not sure of the age of these ones currently in) New Caps. (Same again_ HT Leads (Presume these are standard) Lithium battery ( I want one anyway as an upgrade -not sure about the age again ) So, what do you all reckon...?? Just to add that since Chris at CJS has dyno'd it ive fitted some K&N's so it needs to go back so thought that also could be the issue - but, from memory it was like it before....hard to tell though....
Does it do when you have been idling for a time , then just as you crack throttle open it sort of does a sneeze and cuts
Hi Lee - other way round....most of the time ill come down through the gear (to a set of lights, say...pull the clutch in, in first and then it drops off) usually from just above or at the tickover point...sometimes when im stationary, at tickover and itll just drop off...
Sounds like the fuelling needs set up at the bottom end; parameters reset etc. Or the sensitivity of the QS might be too high. Engine vibes could be causing the QS to cut ignition enough to stall it.
It did do it before the qs was fitted and before the dyno work. Chris was adamant the tick over was ok... Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
If it was a car I would be looking at how the idle speed bypass works , is it some kind of stepper motor or variable window that allows more air to bypass the butterfly's , for instance when you start from cold and you have the higher idle speed which then drops as it warms , this control often can get a bit dirty with carbon like residue and not quite let enough air to bypass as you come to a stop and the ecm dials in the number of steps it has learnt for idle adaptation .
Just had a look at mine see this connector .... That connector where you can see the blue wire goes into an idle control valve that looks like this ...... That idle valve is off a Siemens system Vauxhall Astra .....can you see the cone at the end that goes into a corresponding cone shape hole , the more into the hole the cone goes the less idle speed , the more it gets pulled back the faster the idle , it's the cone shapes that builds up residue and carbon and partially blocks off the air gap . It looks a bit arkward to get at but remove it and clean the end and clean inside the housing . Another thing important for idle is throttle position sensor volts at idle speed , but I would of thought if Chris has been over the bike that would of been checked to be in range
You haven't got any Rizoma stuff on there have you? I wouldn't want to run with that crap bolted to me.
Thanks Lee... I'll take a look in a bit... Just done a 10 hour day at work so a bit knackered... I'll report back... Edit - just to add ive not even been in the garage all week - hoping to this weekend.... Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
Right.... Lee: had that bit out that you said about... Couldnt see anything wrong... Blew a bit of air through the pipes... One felt clear the other maybe not so much but I'd say it could have been me. Today i whipped the tank off and replaced the plugs, ht leads and caps. Could be the placebo effect but it did feel livelier. Was out on it for about an hour and it didn't cut out, but then it does do this randomly. I've got a lithium battery on order and it'll be here on Monday.... See what happens then... Thanks again for the help Lee! Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
Yarp... Went out to collect the black visor for my new Shoei...! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Never done a TPS reset on the hyper - is it the same as an RSV4? (the same type of procedure) ive done that a few times on mine (when one of the TPS sensors failed). While the battery "seems" to be ok a lithium upgrade is something i wanted to do anyway (that'll go into my fettling thread)...
My Evo used to just cut out occasionally after I had it mapped by CJS. I juts accepted it (and assumed) it was something to do with the mapping. Never did it before.
Lithium battery in... Just put it in the tender to top up... The Bluetooth monitor is pretty cool.... Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
