Hello guys, I would like to hear from you MST 1200 owners how the chain is behaving after 20000-30000 miles. What kind of work/maintenance you do to it. How often adjustments are needed? I will be getting one MST12 at the end of this year and I want to learn everything before I get it. I am sorry for the silly question but I have been riding drive shaft driven bikes for the last 19 years. (BMW GSs) (It's time for a change...LOL) Thank you for your help Marcelo
Hi Marcelo I cannot tell u about the 30k miles as my multi is only at 4k, but I am a big believer in the Scott oiler. Keeps the chain lubricated and has the added benefit that any fling off washes off easily. My old yamaha fz6 has 30k on the chain and it's still good, I put it down to the chain being clean and oiled at all times. I am sure you will be fine with the multi....post some pics )
Really if you haven't got a Scottoiler you should be looking at lubing the chain about every 300/400 miles. MTS has a good tool for checking the tension so that's a doddle. I have covered 10k and have adjusted it a few times, with regular cleaning it looks like new.
I have a couple of dedicated chain cleaning brushes, also an old nail brush. I use paraffin in a mist spray bottle and brush all the crap off, then dry it off and leave it to dry. I have it on an Abba stand while I do it but if you have a centre stand it makes it just as easy.
I do much the same as Bob, paraffin/kerosene is perfect for the job (doesn't attack rubber seals, oil based not solvent).....old paint brush, tooth brushes and lots of rags. I'm also a fan of Scottoilers. My impression is that the OE chain is pretty cheap and nasty, very prone to showing surface rust if left wet without 100% lube cover. Chain and sprocket set on the agenda for me even though they don't need replacing......gold chain......bling I'd like to stick with 530pitch and OE size 15T on the front, would like to up the rear to a 42T but have only found 525 pitch to date.
castrol wax is pretty good lube...sticks to chain with no fling...but you need regular cleaning of the chain with it...
I have heard very good things about Dupont Teflon chain lube from the US (one guy reports 27K miles and still fine) but it isn't sold in the UK. Anyone know of a source?
I've only adjusted the chain 4 times in 14000 miles including 3 track days so it's not a frequent job. I use a dry PTFE chain lube as oil based products, including Scottoilers risk a very fine mist of oil getting on the rear disc. Cleaning with paraffin (kerosene) is effective but you'll be lucky not to get paraffin on the rear tyre however careful you are. I wipe the chain over with a rag soaked in thin oil then clean it off with plenty of dry rag before re-lubing with PTFE. It's worked well so far. On present evidence, I expect 20000+ miles from stock chain. Oh, and I don't need to re-lube it more often than 600-1000 miles except in very wet conditions.
be carefull with the chain adjustment tool. If you have had the supension set up changed or rear spring uprated. the chain will be too tight if you use the tool. I thought i had my chain adjusted perfectly until a mate noticed The chain looked tight when I was on the bike . In fact is was solid. so be carefull.... (1200 abs model)
20,500m and still on the OE chain and sprockets and they still look OK. I only use Putoline Chain Wax and have only cleaned the chain 3 times (yesterday was the 3rd time as I have been out of action (not the bike) for 5 weeks and the chain had gone a bit rusty). I use White spirit and brushes and rags to clean it and it is a messy job but only needs doing every 6 months or so. Re-lube is every 600-1000 miles depending on roads and weather! It has been adjusted 3 times so far and will need adjusting at the next service as well. 2 adjustmenst were in the 1st 2,000m after that it has been only been looked at service time.
Yes it is very important to check your chain when you are sitting on the bike and forget the tool if you are slightly over weight as i am : [ . Last week i was on the motorway and my chain snaped and it was only 6 months old, its the first time i have ever had a chain snap on me, so be warned.
Bet that was a scary few moments Nigel!........you obviously managed to get off onto the hard shoulder ok, chain breaking anywhere would be bad but on the motorway Much/any damage to the bike? Had words with your Dealer, any chance they may consider a warranty replacement?? Interesting point re chain adjustment and the effects of rider weight........manufacturers should perhaps quote adjustment parameters for different conditions....e.g. two up with full luggage, that would out weigh you a fair bit I think Nigel! But hang on, if the suspension is setup right (preload) [and tyre pressure] wouldn't the relative position of the rear axle and so chain tension remain within recommended parameters?
My 848 chain has become badly pitted with surface rust I thought at first it was the dry chain lube from wurth that was the problem but I always apply a good coating every 300miles or so. Then i though it was maybe the chain/brake chainer I was using... might just be the fact as said above the poor quailty of thr OEM chain and rear sproket.
As Dukes22 says - don't rely on the book settings if you've changed something I realised that I would not be able to rely on the book setting (Urban solo [preload=1]on sidestand) before I changed my rear spring to the stronger one. Because I have a centre stand, I made sure the chain was correct then checked it on the centre stand. The top of the chain pin lines up with the bottom edge of the cut out slot in the chain tool. This is correct for all 1200s with a centre stand. Now I had a setting I could use whatever spring or preload I was using. Quite what you do when you fit a stronger spring without a centre stand I don't know but the book setting with the stronger spring will definitely be wrong.
