From my experience there's a bracket halfway down the long straight piece of pipe that touches the fairing and heat from the pipe is transferred trough it melting the fairing. The melting on the fairing pictured looks to be in the same place. I cut a notch out of the bottom of the fairing so the bracket doesn't come in to contact with it, seems to have done the trick.
Well, it looks like it's had a whack fron underneath. Not in motion though judging by the lack of scrapes on the belly pan. This is the cause of your melting belly pan, I'm sure. I'd hazard a guess at loading it into a van or coming off a kerb. You could use a dent puller. Or it shold knock out from the inside. But a new link pipe shouldn't be too difficult to source.
Is the pipe stainless or titanium ? If it's stainless, as Robarano suggests, a dent puller where you tack weld little posts along the dent and pull the posts to pull the dent out, much like they do with car bodywork dents. If it's titanium, I haven't got a clue. Andy
Getting any leverage from the inside is going to be difficult because whatever you use will be at such an oblique angle. A simple thing, but you could always knock a socket connected to an extension bar, slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe in to push the dent out. You should be able to knock it back out from the other side.
If it's a 70mm Akra system, it's Titanium. It is usually laser etched on the down pipe close to the RH foot peg. Slip ons use the standard system and steel pipes.
With regards to the fairing 'dent,' I've massaged dents out of plastic car bumpers, using a hot air gun (from behind) Has anyone used this method on Duc plastics?
You could talk to Phil Smith of Storm Performance Fabrications, mobile no. 07725186086 or e-mail him at [email protected] in Preston. He made several exhausts for the Moto Rapido BSB Panigale which is how I know him. Andy
You know some cool people Andy thanks but I m working on a very tight budget this year and I m looking at doing some other thing with the money so do I cut it or not ?
Phil has a day job not associated with his exhaust enterprise. At worst if he says cut the dented piece out and weld a piece in, I don't see it costing mega bucks. It won't cost a penny to drop him an e-mail and ask and if he asks how you found out about him, tell him Andy, the guy he met at Brands that knows Wilf. Hopefully that won't scare him off . Andy
I thought you were talking about cutting the fairing, which you might as well do as it's not much good now. Andy is talking about cutting the exhaust, which one are you refering to @Wazza ?
You re right Andy thanks I just another bottom fairing from fee-bay so I thought I d have a go at cutting the burnt one out put it back on and see what happens as I was thinking about carbon ones until I saw this issue as i ve not got much carbon on as I did all the proper last year and really want a dyno doing and suspension set-up god I do love ducati the list never ends
Really, the dent goes in not out, I would have thought your original took a bash at the same time the pipe got damaged and distorted it enough to touch it, a new/straight panel shouldn't suffer the same. Having said that belly pans on all the superbikes with fatter pipes tend to get toasted I use a heat reflective tape to try and protect them
It's difficult to see exactly how bad the distortion/burning on the lower fairing is but you might be able to fix it with a heat gun, a couple of pieces of wood and some g-clamps. Heat that whole area up, you'll have to be careful not to melt it completely but you will have to get it hot, once it softens up a bit clamp it between the pieces of wood and leave it compressed for a day or so
