Any one know the right sizes for the above. I m restoring from a basket case the bike has incorrect jets the needle is far to small the engine filled with fuel. scrap my new oil. I removed the carbs they have y6 jets needle is way to small no markings. one of my manuals tells me its a Y2 611 other one on line tells me its Y6??? also I'm having trouble locating new jets/needles.
Main jet : 132.5 Starting jet : 70 Needle : 5CJ01-3 Needle jet (Emulsion tube) : Y6 Pilot Jet : 37.5 You should be able to get these from Home - Allens Performance Ltd.
Post a pic of the needle and spring - I have seen several instances of where someone has fitted Dynojet needles (no markings - but identifiable from the shape) but not bothered to change the OEM main jets, simply because it was easier to do. As Derek says, the emulsion tube is Y6 but the OP says his jets are too small - as yet I don't think he has identified the main jet 132.5. If it has no markings, it isn't OEM and is probably a Dynojet one.
The jet is oem it has the square and y6 -611 but the needle just rattles around in it, even if I could get the correct needle it would be ok
So it is the emulsion tube and not the main jet - well don't be surprised if the needle does rattle around in it depending on how far you pull it out. Hold the emulsion tube up to the light so you can see if the hole at the top has worn oval - if it has, replace it. There is plenty of info and threads on this forum relating to the SS carbs and jets etc.
LOL there's over 1/2mm of play with the jet needle all the way in. I think if I can get the right needle it will ok. ur right it will be dyna jet needle.
The tube is OEM y6-611 , but like I said the needle is wrong, see pic, the holes are fine good ovality
The hole that wears is at the top where the needle slides through. They are usually showing signs of ovality by 15-20,000 miles.
What makes you know it is a Dynojet needle? Not that hole.....the one where the needle slides in. If there is a Dynojet kit fitted, the only parts that are changed are needle, spring and main jet. The emulsion tube is only changed if worn, so it's not unusual to find an OEM one there. Why don't you find out what the main jet size is and whether it is OEM or not?
That is the starter jet not the main jet. The main jet is item 6 in this picture, 7 is the starter jet and 8 the pilot jet.
Dear God.......I worry about some bikes that end up on the road after owners have p*ssed about with them. The emulsion tubes, needles and jets in the carbs will not be the cause of your engine filling with fuel - but the float assembly needles stuck wide open will, especially if you had a full tank because regardless of whether the pump is running or not, there is enough head in a full tank to cause a siphon through the carbs and to overflow if the floats do not shut off the float valves. Perhaps this will help you to establish what you need to know, because I don't know what you are doing apart from heading for a big bill.
ok it looks like 128 printed on the top. I m going to check all this at the main agent in Newcastle on Monday. that's the best diagram I v seen so far. I see ur point and the needles it is a dyna needle I have , I did check the floats and valves I replaced them and cleared the system of rust I have the carbs suspended above the manifolds unconnected so I can see the mouth engine side the fuel is coming from the venture not the overflows although they were leaking earlier this bike was stood for nearly 10 years it is the first early Duc I v done(give me Honda quality any day) there was a lot of rust and seizers I have loads time now that I cant work I have a small stool on caster wheels I wiz along the wkshop on and long stick magnets in case I drop anything sounds desperate I know, thanks for your advice it's always welcome we don't all know everything esp me LOL.
Yes, the fuel would come out of the emulsion tubes if the float valves were stuck wide open or the fuel level was very badly incorrectly set........there is no measurement for fuel height BTW. The reason why it would come from the emulsion tube is that the thin brass spigot in the float bowl has it's tiny holes blocked, or the float bowls are filling so fast and spilling over into the manifolds, the level never gets near to those little holes, so the overflows won't run.
the dyna needle it more slender than the oem I compared mine with ur pic it s a very marked difference. I may slash out on a new pair carbs but on a disabled budget its a lot of cash.
The main jet with 128 on it - does it have a little square logo as well? If not, it is the larger of the two Dynojet main jets for a Stage 1 kit for your bike. So on the basis of what we have seen so far, you have a Dynojet kit in your carbs (assuming the spring is the lighter of the two shown in my photo above). IMO you don't need new carbs, they just need cleaning properly and setting up properly. For the fuel level / float height you will find a lot of people say 14mm; but this is only a starting point and is usually wrong. It needs to be nearer to 12.5mm. With these carbs, the pilot circuit relies upon fuel level in the float bowls as well as the pilot jet - this is what controls the running up to about 2500rpm. Once past that point the diaphragm starts to lift the main jet needle out of the emulsion tube, thus providing more fuel for faster running. If I were you I would avoid going to a main dealer and concentrate on what you already have otherwise you are going to end up spending much more money than is necessary - and I doubt there are many main dealer techs that could recognise a Dynojet kit, although an independant specialist is more likely to know.
sorry but I v just fitted new floats needles it still leaking through ventury. I did set the heights 12.5 mm once I get the standard needle to fit the tube Ill go from there. Honda quality I was actually referring to the general bike no disrespect. my 996 is bang on. clearly earlier ones like this 1995 one were a bit behind.
FFS, how many times do you need to be told? You appear to have a Stage 1 Dynojet kit in those carbs - there is absolutely no point in fitting the OEM needle unless you want to f-up the whole set-up. For your information the needle does not stop fuel from coming out of the venturi / emulsion tube - there is no way it should be a tight fit. Your problem is one or more of these: float height settings; wrong float needle; float valve assembly needle seat worn; stuck floats. Given your lack of understanding of what you are being told, I even have to wonder how you actually set the fuel level / float height.......not the dimension you think you have set, but how you measured it. You go ahead - waste your time and money rather than listen to people who know what they are talking about.
