Not sure yet RWC. I've not even ridden it yet. Bike has 3 miles on the clock from the PDI. We'll see. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
I wasn't aware it was a pre-requisite to have one. If there is a reason behind it, it's solely one of personal satisfaction and wanting to build a bike to a level or standard I feel is acceptable, that is unique enough to set it apart from a standard bike. Whilst not destined for the track (at least not now anyway), other than performance mods or handling mods, you could ask what's the point in any changes you make to stock, especially if they are simply cosmetic. That encompasses quite a large percentage of people on this forum. Not sure they have a point either and not entirely sure they actually need one. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Yep I'm with you mate, do what you like. I'm sure it'll look superb when you're done. End of the day what's the point in anything I guess. Enjoy the journey mate
your bike do what you like with it, i think it looks great, the amount of money ive spend on bikes and cars over the years has been ridiculous but worth it in my eyes as i enjoy modding and working on th bikes.
Always a bit nerve wracking when you've built a bike from the ground up, but even I'm not that arrogant to assume I won't have possibly made an error or an omission along the way, so once I have a rolling chassis, less the bodywork, it's off to Carl Harrison, who'll bleed the hydraulic system and give all the critical points on the bike a thorough checking over, to see if I have missed anything. Only when he's happy will I ride it.
Fair enough mate. That said anyone who can build a bike like you are here should be fine to hop on and do a bit of test riding anyhow. A bit of air in the hydraulics will just give you some 1980s spec brakes to be wary of. Great to see the level of details you are going to, get on it and enjoy it
I wish I had the skill and know how to do a project like this. Watching with interest. Good luck mate
It's not that difficult really Miike. You just have to take your time and follow the workshop manual implicitly.
On the home stretch in terms of the wiring. Sheared one of the IMU mounting studs on Thursday, at a very low and recommended torque figure, so have ordered another. Headlight mounting will have to wait until Monday. About 90% of the loom is on and in place. Hope to be able to apply power early next week to check out all the electrical systems. Next step will be to temporarily fit the tank, fill the coolant system and then fire her up to check all is well. After that it's onto the bodywork to test fit the carbon panels, then they can go off to the paintshop. Still waiting on my OZ wheels which will hopefully arrive next week. After that the bike has to go off to have a new chain fitted and the hydraulic system filled and bled. Plenty to be getting on with. Rear light and new under-tail CDT carbon piece are fitted (both of which have been' Ventureshielded' to protect against stone chips and the CDT carbon number plate hangar fitted. Aside from the seat and panels the rear end is now done. Also fitted the newly clear coated rear hugger. I've included a picture of the bike as it stands today. Still a bit of a mess in terms of the front end wiring. I really need to fit the front wheel so that I can turn the steering lock-to-lock to check the cable runs are not fouling. The routeing of the left hand loom from the handlebars is quite critical, especially with the electronic steering damper and connections to the Ohlins sensor unit. It is more a case of trial and error and reference to the workshop manual to get it just right. I finished wiring up some new plug n' play OEM connectors for the Oberon bar end turn signals so most of the fiddly stuff is behind me.
Had to modify the CDT 1199 ABS cover to fit the 1299 as there is a larger cut out on the left hand side to accommodate the different routeing of the ABS lines. Also the clearance between it and the lower radiator pipe was tight, so I shaved off a little material to ensure no contact takes place. The lighting in the picture gives it the appearance of Kevlar but it's not. Also while I'm waiting for the replacement IMU mounting stud to arrive, decided to unbox my CDT order and trial fit the carbon side fairings and seat panels. I will check later on the headlight fairing and how it fits once the headlight is back in place. I also picked up a NANO cleaning kit from CDT. The instrument cover is off to be clear coated. I will be dropping the carbon panels and the carbon lower fairings (which have to be stripped and repainted due to the new paint scheme planned) at the paint shop next week.
Some amazing work going on here, love the attention to detail! Who are you using for the paintwork? Also be interested to hear your thoughts on the rapid bike module once it's all done as I'm thinking of getting one for my 1199. Although the evo not racing model.
Hi Deano. I'm using a local company in Norfolk. I used to use Paint Supremacy in Lincoln, but Mark the owner is so busy, it's over a 3 month wait until he can even start the work. I'll be sure to post up some results from the RB module. From all I have read it really does improve the smoothness of the low end RPM range and makes the bike much more linear than it already is, plus I like the fact that it is self-adaptive and self-tuning, so no dyno sessions needed. Though it does need at least 200 miles before it can calibrate itself to your particular engine.
I have the RB Evo on my 1199. I bought it as I fitted a full decatted 1299 system and added a sprint filter. That horrible jerky low 1199 throttle has been smoothed, no more jerkiness. It just picks up and goes, also that 7k leap in power delivery has been smoothed out. I went up 3 teeth on the rear so that will also help the job.