Dear DVT owners, this is not a happy post, however I'm a happy camper since I just got my bike back from the dealer, it was 100hp, now 160, so I'm still recovering :sunglasses: That said.....the left part of the nose fairing wasnt bolted on correctly...kinda negligent thh, fixed that myself, no biggy. But most importantly, the GPS doesnt charge because the hard wiring failed. The hardware: As you can see the left part is just a cable, that part is hard wired to the bike directly. I ASSUME to this connector beneath the fairing (bike is stored far from here so I cant check it): Situation: When starting up the bike, nothing happens to the gps, no charge. Mechanic and myself watched as he tested the cable coming out the bike with a multimeter, there was current. (I am a noob btw) Than connected the cradle, tested the 2 pins at the end, signals from both, this is the cause he said.... He said only 1 pin should have a signal, not both...There is short circuit he said Sooooo, the cradle is faulty he/we concluded.... I was about to buy a new cradle....but than I had the idea to hook up the 'faulty' cradle to my other bike, my CB1100.... It worked perfectly!!!! :fearscream: SO the cradle works fine! Since he is a Garmin man, wity no tomtom experience, I assume he did something wrong with the hard wiring to the bike. I mailed the shop...waiting for an answer now.. But I fear this can take longer than it should... So, does anybody have an idea or tips about hard wiring a Tomtom to the DVT Multi? Or what could be the issue here?? Thx
Hello Riko, I connected my TomTom on the 12V power socket located right handside, when contact is ON the TomTom is charging, when OFF the power is switched off by the CANBUS this prevents draining your battery. There is an original connector which you pointed in the picture, if the mechanic measures the battery voltage on the connector when contact is ON and the TomTom hardware is o.k than it must work if they connected everything the correct way +12v red -12v black etc..not that difficult. Succes
If there is a bad connection along the path, or the wire at some point is damaged so that only a couple of strands are left, then what you describe could happen. If you measure when nothing is connected/on there is no current draw, and it would show full voltage. Once you draw current (hook up the gps) the few strands left are not able to pass the current needed to run the apparatus (it would show as a voltage drop on the gps side of the bottleneck.
I'm a noob at this. He is a mechanic, if what you say is simple and correct, how come the mechanic didnt come up with that conclusion? I must admit he did not have the gps with him whle he was installing the cables... I took the gps with me....soaybe he couldnt properly test it? Or is that irrelivant? (Like I said, I`m a noob)
Well, it kind of tricks the The beauty of that kind of problem is it fools the test procedure/equipment. Had it happen on a boat where a light didn't work. The bulb worked in other lamps so I knew it was OK. Removed the bulb and measured voltage at the bulb connections and it showed a healthy 12+ volts. Insert bulb, no light. Drove me nuts. There wire had oxidized through most strands. Once the bulb tried to draw current the voltage dropped like a stone. There is a practical problem in getting access to measure the voltage while the GPS (or something with a similar current draw - a proper spec resistor would do) is connected.
Glad the bike now has 160hp but the title is a bit harsh, its a simple wiring loom. The mechanic messed up the cable/connection rather than the dealership! It won't take long to fix or find fault with a multi-meter.
Is this why at least some of the pros on here prefer to use a test bulb, rather than a multimeter where possible ?
okay some pics and a video and the pictures: maybe you guys can say based on the pictures if the "+" and "-" were reversed? Since I cannt say wich is "+" and wich is "-" on the white ducati tab I'll start from the viewpoint. So, as you can see looking at the connector on the pictures, with the tab pointing on top at the left of the tab = black cable at the right of the tab = red cable
On the bikes socket, the wires are straight forward red positive and black earth. Plug the sat nav lead in and see if the wiring corresponds
If you are sure you have the correct gps connector, there must be an ident code or a label on the wiring
In the wiring diagram you see nr 2 is your gps connector comming from the wiring harness from your bike. The connector has 2 wires no 1 + and no 2 - maybe the numbering is in the connector or on the wire ?
I'll look into that tomorrow, but at first sight there were no colors to be seen....just a solid black cable.... There was however some extra tape around the edge, dunno if that is stock or if someone tried to hide the dual colors for some reason... I just hope that cable is not damaged. I'll post a picture of the socketcable tomorrow.
I THINK I've found the cause, mixed "+" and "-" poles. With some help from the Dutch Multi group I was able to compare pictures: CORRECT FALSE First picture is correct, bottom is wrong. My connection is like the bottom one. CORRECT = With the GPS cables towards me and going out of the connector and the tab pointed up, the black cable should come from the left en the red gps cable from the right. Mine is clearly connected the other way.
I wondered the same as the old TomTom Rider2 used to kill the charging mount by blowing the non replaceable built in fuse if it was wired the wrong way round ........ there is an aftermarket replacement with a replaceable fuse....wonder why that was developed I bought one second hand for next to nothing and found the charging mount was knackered so now have the replacement wired into the Multi
nopes But I do know those tomtoms come with a fuse build in somewhere the line, i suspect the cradle itself
