Rob, I may be a bit numb here but the only thing I have found is this H11 12V 100 WATT HALOGEN FRONT FOG LIGHT BULB COMPLETE WITH HOLDER | eBay Is this correct, minus the 100w bulb? I am also struggling to fit the connector. Help would be appreciated please! I may be searching with the incorrect description methinks....
I have done some research on this and it appears to be a common issue. I have ordered a H11 Osram Nightbreaker unlimited bulb and a H11 bulb connector with trailing wire. Looks like I will be cutting the burnt out connector off and soldering/crimping (not decided which is best yet) the new bulb connector on. I will try to post some pics up etc which may assist others with the same issue. It appears most bulbs come complete with the bulb holder these days which threw me as per above post.
The replacement bulb and connectors have arrived, excellent service and they are a good fit. The new connectors are ceramic as opposed to the OE ones which are plastic I think, hence the melting. Next question, others have simply used a block connector to join the wiring, is this acceptable or should they be soldered and heat shrink sleeved? I have never soldered before but think I have an iron lying around somewhere if need be.
Would be better soldered... But if not, twist both ends of the wires together for good contact. But I wouldn't finish it off without heat shrink. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Agree with @bettes solder all the way with heat shrink or you will in all probability have problems in the future. Interesting that the connectors are ceramic, maybe a more common problem than 1st thought. Good luck
Thanks men, I shall dig my soldering iron out. It is quite an issue on the 848/1098 after looking into it, not sure about the 1198, maybe they fixed it by then?
Not been out on the bike for a while due to illness. (first post for a while). Went out last night and ........ Dash backlight and head light flickering on and off. I thought the bulb wiring had resolved this but no. I am now thinking regulator, possibly causing the headlight bulb wiring to fry and blowing the bulb? Bike runs fine, not noticed any other issues.
hmm about 2.5 hours from my house 3from work. several bike workshops in inverness. and surrounding area. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=m...firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=ojZKWYmkMsXG8Af4kYGIDg
Isle of skye road, saddleworth. Last time I checked my voltage read out it looked fine Chris but I will check again. I am pretty sure it is the regulator now. I read carters post and his also damaged the headlight wiring after flickering on and off a while. I think my regulator is on an aluminium plate (need to confirm) so I am assuming it may have already been replaced at some point or did ducati add a heat plate to the rear on initial recall? I will hopefully strip it down tonight and have a good look. Either way, I am pretty sure I need a new regulator now.
Also, took it for MOT friday afternoon, went for a ride afterwards and it stalled several times for no reason. Started up again fine though. More evidence its the regulator????
I had the same issue with my 848. I spoke to a guy in a yamaha dealer of all places and he couldn't have been more heplful. After a chat, he directed me here http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=rr53&PN=RR53.html#SID=273?aRR53 They're a MOSFET reg/rec but identical in dimensions and connections etc so it's a very easy swap. Mine has been perfect since I replaced it.
Hopefully Reg will cure it, Shindengen unit with MOSFET is best option but there is the cost factor plus obtaining kit complete with correct plugs/loom is long-winded in UK sometimes.
Thanks, The electrex link is very interesting ROB687, thank you. Just plug and play without having to change connectors etc? How long have you been running yours rob? I will hopefully take the side panels off tonight and see whats lurking.
Yeah, it's a direct swap and they look identical too. the Electrex one just has far superior internals. I've had it on mine for nearly a year with no issues at all
