Ducati 620ie Non Start (what Else!) - Help Needed!

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by srad34, Aug 16, 2017.

  1. Hi all,
    I am back in the fold after a Ducati break. I picked up a 620s ie over the weekend just for blatting round local lanes.
    Its been stood for a few months, left by the last owner after it refused to start. Hoepfully someone could point me in the right direction to get the old girl going...

    The Symptoms:

    The bike refuses to turn over on the button, no response, not even a click, almost as if the side stand switch was down etc....
    • The factory immobiliser light deactivates correctly with the key switched on and light stays off once ignition on, no flashing
    • With the relay arced, the starter turns the engine over no probs
    • Fuel pump primes and all dash lights do the normal sweep cycle
    • Fuses & Battery all good
    • The sidestand switch is (now) bypassed
    • Replaced kill/starter switch, no difference
    • The ECU has been swapped by Ducati John with a ECU with immob mapped out to check, no difference at all
    • Checked wiring connections for anything loose, chaffed or crusty inc the white block under the bottom yoke, nothing odd found :(
    • I have not tried to bump it yet as the exhausts are not fitted and its on my ramp
    So, nothing obvious, I have replaced the connector block to the relay (as this was causing the same fault on a YouTube vid I found) with temp soldered joints
    Overall, its more frustrating as nothing looks out of place!

    If anyone can shed some light on possible faults before, that would be appreciated!

    ducmon.jpg
     
  2. Hello and welcome back
    It's the wrong colour ;)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. so many possibilities as usual, but one favourite is corroded (large) spade/fuse connector that (on earlier models certainly) sits just to the right of the plastic battery box, it has a little clip to keep it there. One M900 i bought came with a loose wire from the battery + that previous owner used to start engine direct on starter side of the solenoid - problem was as above. If you unplug the block connector and thoroughly examine, it could be the culprit.
     
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  4. Good to see you back fella. How's your lad doing? Is he still singing and nobbing Foggys daughter?
     
  5. Hi, Thanks pal, he certainly is, keeps himself busy for sure. They have a house and everything, all very grown up!
     
    • Like Like x 2
  6. Oooo the lovely Jake :heart_eyes:
     
  7. maybe if he repainted it red?
    just wondering?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  8. fully charge the battery
    try and start?
    nothing happens?
    turn the headlight on? try, head light doesnt change intensity?
    try again with finger on starter solenoid; if it clicking but headlight not changing intensity; this suggest high current switch in solenoid is damaged, next short the two large terminals out with old screwdriver if motor turns replace solenoidif not problem in connection of the large starter cables, if not replace starter
    indicates on current draw ? disconnect the white plastic connector from the solenoid take a wire from the earth black to the frame earth point connect the red wire to an power feed and if bike turns over then you have a problem with the external starter circuit; start button wiring or side stand switch
    by testing with an direct power positive (red) and earth negative this now has determined whether the fault is the solenoid or not. solenoid only has 2 possible faults doesnt click or high current contacts are burnt?
    NOTE IF YOU HAVE RECENTLY HAD THE BATTERY ON CHARGE DO NOT SHORT SOLENOID TRIP CIRCUIT DIRECTLY ON THE BATTERY, USE TWO LENGTHS OF WIRE AND DO REMOTELY FROM THE BIKE. THE RESULTING SPARK CLOSE TO A BATTERY THAT HAS BEEN ELECTROLYSING (BUBBLING) MAY WELL CAUSE AN EXPLOSION, AND COVER YOUR LOVED ONE IN SULFURIC ACID; NO MECHANICS OR MULTI METERS REQUIRED
    Note that corroded joints can be discovered if the starter is trying to start the engine because the current and resistance cause heat where IXV =I squaredXR so if you are out and think you have corroded contacts put your finger on it and see if it gets warm (when holding the start button), note need some post protector to stop the acid corroding the cable teminations on the battery cables if the caps are leaking acid do not hold start button if motor not turning over, if the starter is not allowed to produce useful work it will just produce heat and possibly get damaged
     
    • Like Like x 2
  9. I have one of these bikes... iffa you turn the key on and don't hit the start button within 5 seconds or so it wont turn over... you may all know this and it may be a stupid suggestion, but perhaps it could be related?
     
  10. Thanks Breakout, the main starter/kill switch does nothing, no click etc. I have another switch, tested with the same result and as said, the only way I can turn the engine over is to bridge the starter relay contacts.Noted as well that the plugs wont spark using this test (I assume thats because I am essentially overiding the ECU?)
    There is nothing obvious regarding a wiring fault, all connectors checked, cleaned and covered in dielectric grease, side stand bypassed, no clutch switch on this model (02/03 S), neutral light on etc. 12.5v at the battery with ignition off.
    The lack of any response is the same as a switch fault (like a clutch switch) as all dash lights work as they should, immob light goes out etc....bloody ducati's
     
    #10 srad34, Aug 19, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017
  11. I have read this a couple of times you don't seem to mention the starter relay except when you say you bridge it. Are you bridging the relay or the actual solenoid?
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. Starter motor? Worth direct power to ensure it's working
     
  13. Bridging the solonoid, sorry if I was not clear. I have swapped the main and injector relays over too, fuel pump still primes so I guess they are both good too....

    I have electrics, give me some duff carbs or crusty brake calipers anyday!
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  14. Have you tried turning the motor by hand? Make sure it's it seized (long shot, normally clicks still)
     
  15. Hi Bradders, as noted, the engine turns over fine by the starter with the solonoid bridged, belts are timed spot on etc.
    The issue is that its dead on the switch (Its not the switch!)
     
  16. Must be in the immobiliser (which you're checked) or the switch loom (which you've half replaced)

    No wonder you are confused. What does Ducati John think?
     
  17. to rule the solenoid out, make a short test circuit across the starter trip wires, (as described above), solenoid should click engine should turn, watch headlight, if light goes down, doesnt turn, try new battery, (a sulfated charged battery will not start a bike either). If light doesnt go down too much, has to be starter solenoid.
     
  18. Check solenoid trip circuit with a hot wire from battery side if the heavy, (high current) wire to the the red trip wire?
    if it works solenoidr not getting signal; problem in side stand,clutch cutout, starter button, immobilizer, and/or wiring between them, need diagram start from one end and look for a potential difference (volts) across the switches open switch is the problem? bypass switch, should work?
     
  19.  
  20. every time you reply you eating another banana?
    eat less banana, concentrate on problem?
    sorry, thought the banana eating owner of the bike was a hot ducati riding girl?
    but now discover she is a man? banana eating ladyboy?
    Electrical problem is bad electrokarma, very hard to fix? lol, same thing happened to all my bikes went my wife had her first gender reasignment?
    was only cured after a visit to a knock shop? i gotta go, from here, good luck
     
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