So on a water cooled superbike the tension is 110 Htz for new belts and 85 to 90 Htz when checking tension of old belts . How would you check older belts with an allen key do you use a bigger allen key to check the tension of old belts. Or are you re-tensioning them to new specs which would over tighten them. Think I`ll stick with the Htz.
Had ducati`s for 33 years and must have changed 200 cam belts. Done every method available . The newer one is more reliable . Its repeatable and consistant .
Fingers and the 45 degree twist method. Never failed come to think of it. I was still trying to get my imperial spanners to fit aswel.
FWIW, a word of caution when using frequency checking software. There is no problem if, repeat if, you are sure of the correct frequency for that particular engine but be aware that the same frequency does not necessarily apply to every engine. We are trying to get the tension correct and the frequency will depend on the distance between the 2 points where the belt is being plucked. I do not believe this is the same on all engines and therefore the frequency must be different for the same tension. Think of a guitar string where the frequency changes as you move up and down the fret board but the tension remains the same. I have always used several methods to validate what I have set i.e. 45deg twist / ensuring the idler and tension bearings can still be rotated with friction inside belt / 5mm and 6mm allen key method. For sure the electronic frequency method is accurate and repeatable as d2242 has pointed out above but this assumes you have the precise setting for your engine. Last point - When changing belts, never forget to slowly rotate the engine by hand through a few revs before final setting of tension as it can sometimes change especially with new belts. hope this helps
