Hi all - had my 749 for a few months now. Have a non start problem - turn ignition on and the dash lightds all come on but the fuel pump relay is clicking constantly - I have changed the relay but no change. It will not turn over either - the "Code" light is constantly on the dash board. Battery is fully charged and I've replaced the starter cables with Exige ones - everything was cleaned at same time. Any suggestions welcome ?? Thanks
Check the small earth lead that goes under one of the bolts on the ECU. See if it has broken or is corroded.
Also check the ring is pushed all the way up in the plastic/carbon housing around the ignition barrel.
I had this exact issue with mine. Same symptoms. Bolt on right under battery on ecu was loose. Tightened up, sorted.
Thanks for all the responses - have checked the immobilizer ring and its in the right place- secure under the key surround. I've cleaned the earth beside the ECU and ran a separate wire direct to earth. Still same symtoms !! If I remove the fuel pump relay and switch it on I at least get a neutral light, a voltage reading and a water temp reading on the dash but these all disappear when the new fuel pump relay in reinstalled. Both old and new pump relays click continually when I switch ignition on , and I get the error codes !!
I've had the same issue with relays.i was advised to change the fuel pump relay during a service.The new one caused all sorts if issues so I switched it back to the old one with no issues.Might be worth trying another relay ?
Seems to me there has to be a clue in the clicking relays. Is the current to the relays constant or are the relays clicking because the current is switching on and off?
Are you sure the battery is good? Maybe there is enough current to energise the relays but not enough to hold them open when the current draw increases as a result of them switching? Fully charged I know but is the battery healthy and are the terminals tight??
Hi - thanks for all the responses. Battery is new but and I'm using a car battery as well to verify - exact same symtoms. I need to check the voltage at the pump tomorrow - seeing as that the was the first thing I touched when it would n't start I think I'm best to start there. I hate getting beat on this sort of problem and I'm sure it is something silly like a bad earth or connection. Thanks for the advise - I'll keep at it !!!
EPS, some questions/suggestions What is the battery voltage measured across the battery terminals (not the indication on the dash) Have you tried disconnecting the fuel pump to see if the relay chatter continues when you switch the ignition on with the fuel pump disconnected? Is the 20A fuel pump fuse sitting tight and clean in the holder Are your headlights working ok and have any lights been replaced with aftermarket fittings (LED indicators or rear light for example)? Did the relay chattering occur before you replaced the solenoid and starter cables? When you were working around the battery box have you pulled the ecu connectors to make sure they are clean and seated properly? When you checked the immob ring did you pull the plug to check it was clean, tight and dry? Do you have the red key?
Plus one on the ECU connectors. Fixed the wife’s Panda by spraying with contact cleaner and lots of wiggling.
Hi - thnaks for the inputs. Thnaks Denzil - got 12.6 on my voltmeter - the voltage reading on the dash is not recording anything ?? When the fuel pump is diconnected the clicking of the relay stops. The 20A fuse looks good and tight. Headlights , indicators, horn etc all operating fine and are all standard - no LED units. Yes the chattering of the relay occurred before I replaced the leads - I assumed it was a faulty relay and whilsT I was changing it thought I might as well do the leads too. Yes immobilizer plug all clean and dry. Thanks
When I disconnect the fuel pump relay , the neutral light, oil light and voltmeter on the dash now illuminate as if I was ready to start.It obviously wont as there is no fuel pump.
Bit more work today and by way of an update - I've tested the fuel pump relay off the bike and it seems to work perfectly. However once installed the Brown /White obnly registers 7.8V - surely this should be 12V with ignition on ?
A little update is in order. Not had much chance to look at the bike this week but after checking another forum I think the earth connection inside the ECU has gone. Not the external earth. I'm not quite finished yet but if I earth the black wire on the 2 pin diagnostic port everything lights up as normal and the fuel pump relay operates correctly. Still need to connect everything up properly and try to start it tomorrow but its very encouraging. This suggests a fault within the ECU. Cheers Eamonn
On the JPDiag forum the usual indication the internal earth has failed on the ECU is the fans being constantly on and the EOBD light on. If you look below the battery you will see two Allen head bolts. These are the bolts that secure the ECU. Try running a wire from a good earth on the bike or if you are confident you know + from -, from the negative terminal to one of the bolts. If the bike starts then your problem is with the earth flylead that goes under one of the nuts on the ECU heatsink.
