Ducati 996 - She No Run!!

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by ripface, May 18, 2017.

  1. If I remember right, resistance is around 750 to 950 ohms. Ditch it if it shows any signs of swelling. Substitution is the only real check.
     
  2. Cheers PeteW and Derek for the info!

    Ok,

    Pulled the crankshaft sensor connector, I see three pins. Checked across and between them all, open circuit on everything bar the two leftmost pins which is reading 888 ohms. That sound ok?

    Cheers,
    Ripface
     
  3. That sounds ok. I'm sure Derek will agree. Mine is about 680, which is what Haynes reckons. There are 3 pins because 1 is a shield connected to 0V. The other 2 are the coil. It's not a definitive test but the result you got suggests it should work while cranking cold at least. Sure you're not getting at least a spark? Do you have an immobiliser fitted?
     
  4. Yes, the resistance sounds ok.
     
  5. Looks like my comment about the pump not priming when switching ignition back on within 10secs of switch-off was a red herring. I thought I'd observed it on my bike while hunting down a misfire. I've since by-passed the immobiliser, which had control of the pump line, and it primes every time I switch on.
     
  6. Hey PeteW,

    Yeah, I did wonder (and worry) about that a little, as I'd noted that my bike primed every time ... even when hitting the kill switch off and on.

    Back to the drawing board again I guess, as it appears not to be the crankshaft sensor on my bike anyways.

    Some years ago I did have a Meta M357T alarm which died a death. I removed the alarm, and wired out the starter motor cut-out. I'm pretty sure there was not any wiring for the ignition system so kinda excluding that from my investigation.

    Ho hum!

    Cheers,
    Ripface
     
  7. Ripface, whereabouts are you?
     
  8. His profile suggests Grampian.
    Steve
     
  9. Steve, I should have checked. Grampian makes assistance a non starter
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. Hey Gents,

    Thanks for the thought, I'll muddle along and I'm sure I'll get there!! Was planning on wheeling the old girl out tomorrow and spending some time looking like Rodin's Thinker. Unfortunately my Cooper S flagged an engine check light on the way home after work, and now is running like a bag of shite.

    Ho Hum! Cars 'n' Bikes ... who needs 'em?

    : (

    Cheers,
    Ripface
     
  11. Ok, Another couple of hours wasted ......

    I bit the bullet and removed all the wiring harness from the Meta M357T alarm. Rejoined the spliced cables and tidied everything up. The old alarm harness is now consigned to the bin, and now that I've popped a plaster on a sliced finger (bloody stanley blade!!) I hit the starter.

    Good news: The starter turns over, and the pump primes and runs
    Bad news: Damn thing still won't start

    Same symptoms, no smell of fuel and no sparks!! I checked the crank sensor again as the symptoms indicated that it might be faulty but it's still reading a depressingly healthy 888 Ohms.

    Any more ideas gents, I'm fresh out. Time for a beer and a jack to commiserate!

    : (
     
  12. Ok, Another couple of hours wasted ......

    I bit the bullet and removed all the wiring harness from the Meta M357T alarm. Rejoined the spliced cables and tidied everything up. The old alarm harness is now consigned to the bin, and now that I've popped a plaster on a sliced finger (bloody stanley blade!!) I hit the starter.

    Good news: The starter turns over, and the pump primes and runs
    Bad news: Damn thing still won't start

    Same symptoms, no smell of fuel and no sparks!! I checked the crank sensor again as the symptoms indicated that it might be faulty but it's still reading a depressingly healthy 888 Ohms.

    Any more ideas gents, I'm fresh out. Time for a beer and a jack to commiserate!

    : (

    Bye the way, I also ordered up a diag adapter cable and wanted to try the DucatiDiag to see if it helped. Seems the only diag program I can find is GuzziDiag, but apparently it works fine on Dyukes. Anyone else any experience with this, as I could not get it to connect to the ECU. Hmmm!
     
  13. Hi Ripface,
    The 1.6M diagnostics tool developed by TheDarkWraith on ducati.ms can be downloaded here:

    https://www.mediafire.com/file/iow4dbg1ow38ud4/TDW_UM999X_v1_0_148_0.zip

    I think this is the final version (v1.0.148), before he vanished from that forum in late May 2014. I needed to install DirectX 9 to get it to run on my old laptop running Vista, and I think the same is required for Win7. The original Ducati.ms thread is here (it's quite long):

    http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/279737-designing-ultimate-1-6m-chip.html#/topics/279737

    I've only used v1.0.114 so far, which is buried somewhere in the thread. This had a folder full of useful documentation.
     
  14. Thanks Pete ... will have a butchers!!
     
  15. Hmmm, I can't seem to get the ECU Tools software to run on my Win 7 lappy. Tried all the compatibility modes, and it seems to either fail to start at all ... or come up with a "Program has stopped" error.

    .... any clues?
     
  16. Check out this thread for 1.6M diagnostics software:

    http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/279737-designing-ultimate-1-6m-chip.html#/topics/279737

    It's a long thread and the link to the final version is towards th
    Ah, I think you need to install DirectX. I was getting the 'program stopped' error until I installed it (v9 worked for me).
     
  17. I've just tried the tools on a Win7 machine and got the 'stopped running' error. Then I nstalled the version of DirectX from here:

    download.microsoft.com/download/8/4/A/84A35BF1-DAFE-4AE8-82AF-AD2AE20B6B14/directx_Jun2010_redist.exe

    and it fixed it. Run the exe and allow it to dump all the files into a temp folder, then go into that folder and run the DXSETUP.exe and let it install. The tools should run after that.
     
  18. Right, spat the dummy with the diag software!!

    Back to basics. Is there fuel going to the engine?

    Popped the tank off, removed the "return" side connector and swung it to one side. Point said "return" pipe at a suitable container. Switch on engine, pump fires into life for the priming cycle .... and no fuel out of the return pipe.

    WTF?

    SHOULD I get a flow of fuel from the return pipe with it disconnected from the tank? I'd have thought so, but wondering if there is a valve in the connector that stops flow when it's disconnected?

    Anyone know?

    Cheers,
    Ripper
     
  19. Ripper, there is a pressure regulator and a fuel filter both inside the tank, are you sure the pipes on your fuel pump assy are not blowing or have been incorrectly plumbed? BTW, to confirm, the white connector is the return and the black is the delivery
     
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