one of my Fuglys Forks are, eh..leaking. whats involved in replacing the seals on the ohlins forks fitted to a 2007 1100s? big job? special tools? precautions?. any recommendations for somebody to overhaul? expensive?. i could possibly send em of to a mate but wouldn't mind doing them myself, if i could find the time.
yip, the things you have to do to get a lil attention around this place, but, there's no rush. it got me motivated to get the 848 on the road today.
This used to be find 'em, feel' em & forget 'em refering to girls (but apparently other sexes are now available if req'd). Lately its been f*ck friends forever as in longterm sex only women . Now it's Finms f*cked forks! What is the modern world coming to?
I changed the seals on my 1098 Ohlins. Easy job. I bought the tool for undoing the cap on the top off e bay. You can of course just drop 2 pins in 2 of the holes and put a bar/large screwdriver across them to undo them. There are a number of vids on YouTube that show you the how too
Nothing difficult about them @finm. I did a set a few weeks ago. 7.5 sae oil but I can't remember the level to set them to. I'm in the Outer Hebrides right now, I'll try to remember to post you the details when I get back. That will be Thursday.
maybe i should get round to fixing the front brake at the same time, i was bitching about this around three four years ago. its pulsing like a warped disk but no feed back though the leaver, if i mind right idrinkbeer sugested just giving the disks a good clean, i need new pads as it dumped the fork oil on the disks anyhoo, should these disks float a lil?
A washer with a slot in it. Pull down the preload spacer and slide the washer in to keep the spring compressed while you loosen the lock nut. Screw the rebound adjuster all the way in before dismantling so that the click range is the same when you put them back together. And when you empty the oil out watch for the spring and needle valve below the long adju
Not very much. Make sure the bobbins are free to rotate. Usual problem in these circumstances is pad material built up on the discs. Scrubbing the discs with wet & dry might help.
I use an easy out in the bobbin hole and rotate with drill apply drop of lube . If the bobbin s are not free it will cause pulsing through lever.
I did mine with a nut and bolt through the bobbin and electric drill but I used cillit bang degreaser to dissolve the gunk but not contaminate discs or pads and loads of kitchen towel to soak up the resulting mess. Don’t know if it’s correct or not but I kept going till I could move each bobbin freely enough to get an audible click. The brakes were enormously better afterwards
i will get the parts ordered tomorrow and get back to yous on this. next question, why do they call those things in those recessed areas on the front of an 848 fairings a headlight ffs?
righto, parts ordered. what are we painting the master cylinder reservoir covers with these days? also, who are we buying our carbon from. need a huger and bolts for the 848.
If you are looking at satin black I have had great results with Autotek from a rattle can and most importantly use their etching primer first.
right, my parts turned up at work last week with some instructions. X amount of fluid per fork with an air gap of Y, think it was 160mm, what do they mean by an air gap?
