Yep. Front cylinder cat is in the link pipe under the sump so easy to get cut out and welded back up. End can is more tricky, loads of crap in there to cut out, WEAR A GOOD MASK AND GOGGLES. There are a few threads about on how people go about it. Some chopped the whole top off along the welds and gutted the lot. They made up new exit tubes to make them same size as the proper race cans. This will make the bike a lot louder. I cut a square off the top of the can with a .8mm disc and left the exit tubes OEM. I gutted as much as I could but it's a bitch to get in there. If I did again I'd just pass to a welder to gut. I got 3 lengths of perforated exhaust tubing, 65, 55, 45 mms (ish, would need to check) and had the welder make 2 tubes in diminishing diameters to go from the entrance to exit holes. Then wrapped them in exhaust waddling and stuffed the gaps. Bike is around 100 db so ok on most TDs, which is what I was aiming for. 0 weight saving. Sounds a lot better. Looks completely OEM so no MOT issues.
I rode for a bit with the standard map but would pop on over run a bit and occasionaly stall coming off bypasses into roundabouts. Ended up getting a custom map and no issue since. It cost about £150 for parts and to pay welder.
Ok thanks for that. Time to get to work on it then. Do you think getting @chrisw to do a remap on my ecu and mapping it to an r will do the trick or do you think I’d defo need a custom map
A Termi slip on map would probably give your best match. I've an idea Chris can help you with that. My bike came with a straight through gutted OEM can with Termi size end pipes. When I see OEM pipes they just look wrong, far too small.
